Where the Not-Pardoned Turkeys Are

On Thanksgiving Day, some of the Kimpton restaurants will be offering special menus. Chef Dennis Marron at Jackson 20 will serve a three-course Thanksgiving menu for $50 per person. Menu items are also available a la carte. A few blocks away, Dennis’ other kitchen at The Grille at Morrison House will serve a five-course Thanksgiving tasting menu for $85 per person, also offering a la carte options BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier offers a three-course Thanksgiving-themed dinner for $65 per person.

Menus are on their respective websites. The Apple Tarts at Morrison House are making me seriously doubt my Thanksgiving Plans.


For Thanksgiving Sunday, the DC Dining Society is hosting a Thanksgiving Banquet on Sunday, November 28, from 11:30 AM until at least 3:30 PM at Taberna del Alabardero. Beverages include Taittinger Champagne Brut La Francaise NV, Louis Jadot Beaujolais Village 2009, Catoctin Creek Organic Roundstone Rye Whisky, Catoctin Creek Pearousia and Vermont Spirits Vermont Gold Vodka. The meal will include traditional American fare as well as Northern Spanish Cuisine.

The price is $75.00 per person at the door or the advance price of $70.00 by cash or check that must be received at least 24 hours before the event and includes all food, wine and spirits as well as, tip and tax. Please contact Chef Marty for additional information and reservations at 202-265-0477 or chefmartydc@aol.com

South Africa 2010

DC has to be one of the best places in the US to watch the FIFA World Cup (this is a very funny take). I come from a country where the GDP goes down during the World Cup, and until I moved here I never had to think long or hard about where to watch it.

Germany 2006 I watched from the office as well as various Georgetown bars. Most of the matches will be broadcast in the morning. The first game is Mexico-South Africa this Friday, so if you have an understanding boss, your priorities straight, or just a general disregard for the work day, here are a few places you should consider, all near office hubs:

1. Lucky Bar (Dupont-Farragut)
The year-round sentimental favorite of the OAS. The food isn't great but the ambiance is befitting of futbol.

2. MadHatter (Farragut North)
Though I mostly think "Kickball", their new location is decked out in soccer balls with non-sensical messages, including alternative spellings for Uruguay.

3. Public Bar
Across the street from Lucky Bar, making its first foray into World Cup broadcasting. I suspect once Latinamerican teams start playing each other, half the Lucky Bar crowd will flock over there.

4. Urbana (Dupont Circle)
The classier option, this wine bar will honor host country South Africa by serving its wines along with select items from the brunch, lunch and bar menus. When Italy, France, Spain or the U.S win a game, guests can mention “World Cup Wine Special” and receive 25% off bottles of wine from that country on the day of their win. If you can't leave the office, Urbana will show reruns during happy hour serving a special selection of $5 small plates (in addition to regular happy hour specials).

5. Jackson 20 (Old Town)
Chef Denis Marron will feature a special $20.10 menu during live games and a large flat screen out in its courtyard.

6. ESPN SportsZone (Metro Center)
You're going there for the many many TVs.

This is a purely self-serving list based on my current work stomping grounds. Send us your suggestions!

WRITE-INS!

7. AGAINN (Metro Center)
Is getting in on the fun with “Bangers vs. Burgers 2010”. At 2:30 PM on June 12, guests can watch the game on three flat-screen televisions in the 19-seat bar while selecting from the restaurant’s signature Bangers and Mash or Burgers and Chips along with a choice of six different beer shandies. Both featured dishes are available at a discounted price of $15 each for this day only. Bartenders will keep track of the sales for both dishes, and the team with the most sales at the end of the match wins bragging rights until the next FIFA tournament.

Each of the games will be televised leading up to the finals on July 11th.

8. J. Gilbert's (McLean)
J. Gilbert’s in McLean is throwing a World Cup wines event on the evening of June 15th from 5 to 7 pm: for $30 per person, you get to taste six gorgeous South African wines (the pours are big!) and munch on six passed appetizers inspired by the cuisine of South Africa. There will be a rep from Cape Classics on hand to share info about the wines. Reserve early as space is limited. 703-893-1034.

9. Jaleo (Penn Quarter, Bethesda, and Crystal CIty)

All three Jaleo locations will be open at 9:30 AM and feature their “Jaleo Hour” specials during the games which includes a variety of Jaleo’s most popular tapas, priced at $4 each including Patatas bravas- 2009, fried fingerling potatoes topped with a spicy tomato sauce and alioli; Gambas al ajillo, shrimp sautéed with garlic and guindilla pepper and the tasty Croquetas de pollo, traditional chicken fritters. To quench one’s thirst, Jaleo’s famous white and red sangria, rail drinks and draft beer will be offered for $4 at the bar only.

An Evening at Brabo

When describing Old Town, the guide book I bought shortly before moving to DC 5 years ago states, "It's a relief, after the expansive boulevards and monuments of DC, to walk around a town built on a more human scale." I spent the better part of two years commuting to Alexandria daily, and found myself falling for its less over-eagerly preserved charms. Old Town idiosyncrasies make it particularly taxing to make the trip: street parking is hard to find, traffic police is relentless, the Farmer's Market closes much too early, and the heavy tourist traffic complicates the separation of the wheat from the chaff, restaurant-wise. The boom in great new options in DC not withstanding, Old Town is still worth the trip, especially in the summer months.

We'd been to Brabo before. Aside from a very kind invitation to try out the new Spring menu, I have bought picnic baskets from Butcher's Block, their sister store, which I greatly enjoyed, and Brasserie Beck, another Robert Wiedmaier restaurant, is one of my favorites. The dining room at Brabo breaks up the space into various areas, all with directed lightning, which makes the space more intimate. Many of the tables are flanked by banquettes (which are a bit too low, or perhaps I am too short). The chairs are calculatedly mismatched. The bar, out by the front, is located by a large window, which makes the bar's copper treatment glisten. We started out the meal with a round of cocktails. I ordered a Cherry Pisco Sour, partly because I am always comparing iterations of the Peruvian cocktail to my own. Brabo's version, unfortunately, did not compare favorably. The maraschino overpowers the drink, making it too sweet and the color slightly off-putting. Other cocktails, such as the Side Car and the Aperitivo, looked more promising. I'll keep it in mind for my next visit.

We started the meal with a hamachi crudo (which is on the Bar menu), perfectly cut pieces of young yellowtail drizzled with sweet soy, yuzu, and ginger milk. The entire table was wondering what the sweet sauce was - the taste was of plums and figs, which paired marvelously with the fish. As this is a Robert Wiedmaier restaurant, mussels are prominently featured. I ordered the night's special, soft shell crab. The crab was lightly fried and rested on a bed of corn and bacon, giving the dish a distinctly local flair. The greens were lightly dressed, and the flavors complemented each other.

One of the highlights of the meal was our initial wine pairing, a Domaine des Malandes "Cuvee Tour du Roy" Vielles Vignes 2007 Chablis. I seldom see it in restaurants, and this is one of the only ways I will enjoy a wine made from Chardonnay grapes. Chablis is a dry white wine, with a pure, bright aroma and taste that makes it great for pairing with food. As a plus, the store and restaurant share a liquor license, and most of the wines are available for purchase.

The menu at Brabo is very eclectic, and has more American and Asian inspired dishes. It was a cold and rainy night, so after much consideration between the Lamb Nicoise Salad and the Roasted Breast of Pekin Duck. I chose the duck, which stood out from all the other entrees. The presentation is extremely original: the duck's leg is presented as a Spring Roll, which is a creative use of the fat, and the kitchen added the Asian flair by infusing the duck jus with a hint of chili. The duck was cooked just right, and was extremely juicy. We had several side dishes, including roasted artichokes (that could have done with less gruyere) and asparagus in a bacon vinaigrette, a fun way to add some smoke and crunch.Our entrees were paired with a David Noyes Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir that did the remarkable feat of pairing with fish, scallops, pork, and duck.

As no tasting exercise could be complete without trying dessert, we went with our server's suggestions -he knew the menu inside out, and was very enthusiastic about the kitchen's offerings. The night's special was strawberry shortcake, with the season's earliest local strawberries making their grand entrance. Hard as it was to resist the waffle, I ordered the Peanut Butter bar, a very light peanut butter mousse resting on top of flourless chocolate cake. The dessert is not overly sweet, and incorporates the peanut's saltiness to its best advantage.

End (or start) your King Street stroll there. You won't be disappointed.


Brabo
1600 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
www.braborestaurant.com

Earth Day Happenings on April 22

We've been going to Poste Earth Day events for years and always have a great time. Good to know someone is working on off-setting my ever-widening carbon footprint.

· Poste’s Rob Weland will roast a 400 pound pig from Eco Friendly Foods as Poste officially reopens the courtyard for service. The new “Garden” menu will be unveiled, and guests can enjoy $4 food and drink specials from 5:30 to 8:00. Proceeds from entry fees and food and beverage will go to Washington Youth Garden and Beet Street Gardens

· Firefly will give guests a $1 credit for every wine cork brought in for lunch and dinner (up to 22 corks per check), and will recycle all corks collected. Chef Danny Bortnick will also serve a five-course menu featuring produce from local farms.

· Jackson 20 unveils its new “Eco Hour” happy hour with an extensive canned beer list. A “Late Night Blackout” Happy Hour will be available from 11:00, where the restaurant will kill the lights and serve happy hour specials by candle light. Both happy hours will officially launch on Earth Day and will be available throughout the spring and summer months.

· Chef Dennis Marron at the Grille at Morrison House will serve a 100-mile menu candlelight dinner.

· The Butcher’s Block will host a biodynamic wine tasting featuring local food. This event is free to the public.

It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown

I will be out of town for Halloween this year, and it seems like I will miss a lot more than the usual Georgetown debauchery this time around. Enjoy!

Dia de Muertos

José Andrés and the team at Oyamel Cocina Mexicana led by Head Chef Joe Raffa will be hosting a Day of the Dead celebration, one of the most important holidays in Mexican culture. For one week, October 27th through November 2nd, Oyamel will provide a special menu featuring tasty tamales, specialty handcrafted cocktails and a tamal cart on the Oyamel’s patio. Highlights from the menu include Sopa de Calabaza con carnitas, a butternut squash soup flavored with Mexican cinnamon, annatto and habañero chile finished with crispy fried pork and marigolds and Ensalada de Agucate, a salad of avocado, purple tomatillo, red onion and crispy pork rinds topped with a Mexican oregano dressing.

Ghost Roast
On Halloween starting at 6 PM, Poste will celebrate fall and Halloween with a special Poste ‘Ghost Roast.’ With a menu featuring wood roasted baby goat and The Linus, Roasted local pumpkin, Flor de Cana 7 year old rum, Bacardi coco, touch of milk, dusted with nutmeg. All guests are encouraged, but not required to wear a Halloween costume. A five-course chef’s tasting for two will be awarded to the guest with the best costume of the evening. Cost for the roast with pairings is $45 exclusive of tax and gratuity. Space is limited (30 seats total) and reservations are required. In the event of inclement weather, the Poste Ghost Roast will be moved indoors to the Poste Atrium. For reservations and for more information contact Stacy Nemeth at (202) 449-7062

Trick or Tea
Over at Morrison House, their traditional Story Time tea will have a Halloween spin with a special reading of ‘The Berenstain Bears Trick or Treat’ by Stan and Jan Berenstain. Chef Dennis Marron will prepare a fall and Halloween themed spread for the event, including house-made mini pumpkin pies, Halloween candy and treats, organic teas, freshly baked scones and biscuits and a selection of gourmet sandwiches. Kids $28 Adults $38. For reservations please call 703-838-8000 or email storytime@morrisonhouse.com

Other Events

Doggie Happy Howloween Costume Contest: Two-and-four-legged guests are encouraged to don their best Halloween getups in front of a judge panel at this event benefiting the Animal Welfare League of Alexandria. Prizes will be awarded to the best owner/dog couple, the most glamorous canine, and the overall “top dog.” (Hotel Monaco Alexandria/Jackson 20, 5-8 p.m., Oct. 29)

Pumpkin Carving Contest: Five years running, the annual Pumpkin Carving Contest has proven to be a sure-fire “gourd” time. With the Helix Lounge providing pre-scooped pumpkins, carving tools and great prizes, all patrons will need to bring are creative ideas and a steady hand. (Helix Lounge, 6-8 p.m., Oct. 27)

Yelloween Bash: Topaz Bar invites Washingtonians to add a little color to their Halloween celebration, by attending the “Yelloween Bash,” sponsored by Veuve Clicquot’s Yellow Label. At the event, guests can enjoy tarot card readings, a costume contest and complimentary Veuve Clicquot champagne with hors d’oeuvres. (Topaz Bar, 5-10 p.m., Oct. 31)

Vampire Ball Costume Party: It’s official - the nation has been bit by the vampire craze, and this Halloween, Washingtonians can celebrate their other-worldly fascination in style at Helix Lounge’s Vampire Ball. Patrons can don their favorite vampire-inspired costume for prizes, and enjoy hors d’oeuvres and specialty cocktails. (Helix Lounge, 6 p.m. – 2 a.m., Oct. 31)

Bessie Knows Best

The Conventional Wisdom for those of us that frequent Old Town Alexandria is that, particularly on King Street, the further away from the water the better the restaurant. While this adage may ring true for less-than stellar destinations right on the river that mostly rely on tourist foot traffic, exceptions must be made: La Bergerie on Lee Street, and Jackson 20, half a block away from Market Square.

I've often found a perch at the Bar at Jackson 20 to enjoy the view and the cocktails, Located on the edge of a dark wood dinning room with a picture window on one side and an open plan kitchen on the other, it is a good place to unwind, watch some random sports on an available but never intrusive TV set, and chat with some of Old Town's friendliest bar tenders. Jackson 20 is a restaurant with a sense of humor - the centerpiece of the dining room is Bessie, an often-costumed pig. To find a bust of Mr. Jackson, he of 20 dollar bill fame, you will have to head for the back door. The courtyard, an ample space for beautiful nights away from the bustle of King Street, also hosts the storied Doggie Happy Hour, a tradition that Kimpton kept when they took over the property a few years ago.

On this particular outing I got to sit with a group of writers at the Chef's table, a large marble slab opposite the bar. We started with cocktails. While my favorite is the Honeysuckle (Absolut Ruby Red, grapefruit juice, honey syrup and muddled ginger), this time around I decided to try the Presidential Punch, concocted for Obama's inauguration - a delightful and unlikely combination of Cachaça, peach Schnapps, sparkling cider, house-made raspberry syrup, accompanied with fresh apples, peaches, and pineapple. The fruit at the bottom truly makes it a punch, and it puts one's stomach in good stead for the Southern-inspired food to come.

For an appetizer, I ordered the Scallop and Shrimp Brochette, a skewer wrapped in bacon with a side of grits and greens. I was looking forward to the dish, as I love scallops and what Chef Denis Marron does with them. While the grits were creamy and the greens peppery and fresh, the bacon overwhelmed the proteins. The kitchen also sent us shrimp fritters (fried just enough to keep them doughy and hot) and ham sliders, the perfect size for a bar bite - Country ham with fresh-made slaw on a biscuit with a great salty taste, but a bit dry.

In between courses I switched to a glass of Oregon Pinot Noir - Jackson 20 has an extensive selection of wines by the glass, as well as some funky wines for 20 dollars a bottle.
As a main dish, I decided to go for the full rack of ribs, after securing promises from around the table that I would get some help with them. At 20 dollars (10 for half), the dish is one of the best dinner deals in Old Town - a portion big enough to share (and a plate that had to be carried out by the Chef, insert Flinstones jokes here.) The pork ribs were cooked just right - the meat came right off as I went through the motions of using a fork, extra sauce was at hand: the smell was complex without being overly pungent, with a top note of all spice and hints of chocolate, topped with a dusting of chives. The smashed potatoes were well-seasoned, and I would have finished them were it not for the Virginia Cheddar Macaroni & Cheese Casserole that we ordered for the table - the bacon and ham hock gave it an added texture and smoke without making it too salty, and the top was crusty in all the right ways.

Once I secured a box for my ribs (even with all that help), I joined in the partaking of a cross-selection of desserts. My favorite was the Pecan-Chocolate Pie, a reminder that NoVa is, in fact, Virginia. A tall chocolate pie, it has the consistency of a very dense mousse (or a very fluffy pudding), a buttery crust, and a good quantity of pecans, topped with a dollop of Chantilly Cream. A close second was the Blueberry Cobbler with buttermilk ice cream, a well-rounded combination of hot/cold/tart/sweet. As opposed to many cobblers, the starch could have stood up on its own in terms of taste and texture. The Lime Meringue Tart and the Banana Pudding, both beautifully presented, would make many grandmothers proud.

Pay your respects to Bessie next time you're in Old Town. She'll even be a a good sport about the barbeque sauce-stained napkin you'll leave behind.

Jackson 20 @ Hotel Monaco, Old Town
480 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
www.jackson20.com

Brabo and the Lorien Hotel & Spa Splash Out on a Spring Evening

In late March I was invited to the official opening of the Lorien Hotel & Spa at 1600 King Street in Old Town, Alexandria. Part of the Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, the Lorien Hotel & Spa is connected to Chef Robert Wiedmaier’s newest formal restaurant, Brabo, and accompanying business-casual Brabo’s Tasting Room. Both opened for business on February 12. The chef’s accompanying gourmet fromagerie, charcuterie and wine market, The Butcher’s Block: A Market by RW, unlocked its doors just over a week ago. Chef Wiedmaier and staff provided savory hors d’oeuvres for those circulating throughout the hotel and a sampler of desserts for guests who stopped by Brabo afterwards.

The Lorien Hotel & Spa combines an Old Town-appropriate exterior with a cozy and luxurious modern feel inside. A spacious open-air courtyard featured traditional red brick walls and a copper roof, along with a square fountain featuring floating candles and a tall clock. A wide blue slate path led to the entrance as invitees wandered, sipping flutes of champagne here and in the hotel-enclosed patio, as a square fireplace flamed in the chilly air.

The courtyard and patio area’s atmosphere offered a solid contrast to the cool-hued reception area, which featured modern and traditional furniture in shades of robin’s egg blue, dark teal, chocolate, and white. A circular copper leatherette chair picks up color from outside and is an appealing place to wait for a hotel guest. Candles floated in varied glass cylinders of water, which matched the uneven heights of the white-paper–covered books lying on shelves in a pleasant anteroom leading to the open brick patio. Designer Vicente Wolf told me that his “library” was meant to be primarily abstract and sculptural. I found that the shelves of books seem to add space to the low-ceilinged chamber instead of compounding its intimacy.

While tasting the savory bites created for the opening, I sipped a Belgian Bavik Pilsner that served as a malleable accompaniment to Chef Wiedmaier’s diverse and Belgian-inspired dishes. Wasabi was supposed to accompany the tuna tataki on cucumber, but it proved surprisingly bland. Also, the endive leaves with chèvre, while fresh, seemed ho-hum and monotextural without extra crunch. The delicious mini-cassoulet was appropriately earthy for a cool spring twilight, however. The white beans cooked in duck fat were rich and the lamb merguez and duck sausages added spice and bite. Smoked trout mousse on garlic-rubbed crostini was also tasty. Two other standouts were the light and crispy tempura shrimp in a citrus sauce and perfectly cooked pork tenderloin in a sweet chili reduction with mango chutney, ginger, and raisins. These savory hors d’oeuvres were served throughout the courtyard and patio areas for the gala.

At the hotel bar my friend tried a Brabo Punch, which I sampled also. Excessively sweet in combining Captain Morgan, amaretto, cranberry and pineapple juice, it seemed more appropriate for a beachside bar in the Bahamas. A flamboyant White Cosmo combining vodka, triple sec, lime and white cranberry juices showcased its ingredients better, and billowing smoke from a pellet of dry ice at the bottom of the glass made this cocktail visually festive and fun. It was only available for the party, unfortunately, but I will keep it in mind when dreaming up my own concoctions.

An array of mini-desserts and appropriate drinks, such as a silk-smooth Chocolate Martini with an amaretto cookie-crumb rim, introduced the restaurant to those visiting for the first time. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Brabo has a warm, unpretentious elegance about it. Its white tables, orange light sconces, chocolate walls flecked with cream, and seats alternating between traditional white wood and contemporary brown leather create an inviting and classy ambience. Near the door leading to King Street, an intimate, copper-topped bar offers a lovely place to meet a friend, with conical lamps throwing a diffuse spotlight on the plush copper bar stools.

Chef Wiedmaier and sous-chef Kate Baltren deserve kudos for the dessert sampler. They included standards like strawberries dipped in white and dark chocolate, along with a simple oval Belgian chocolate with a banana-caramel interior. The rose gerbet macaroons were yummy, and a tiny carrot cake layered with cream cheese and topped with a dab of cream-cheese buttercream was moist and addictive. Also, the bread pudding, which is made of leftover croissant, muffins, and other pastries, should not be missed. You will find a dessert-sized portion at the Tasting Room next door. After the heartiness of the savory items, however, I most relished the refreshing lemon tart topped with a drizzle of white chocolate, candied lemon wedge, and sprig of cilantro. A full dinner at Brabo costs from $75 to $100 or more per person, with appetizers, entrees, desserts, and a bottle of wine included.

Brabo’s Tasting Room has an agreeable clean and industrial feel, with brushed-steel counters, high ceilings, metal stools at a central long table and white-tabled booths with chocolate leatherette seats. The business-casual restaurant served mozzarella-prosciutto and duck-confit flatbreads at the gala. I could not taste them, since I arrived there after hungry visitors had inhaled all available slices. A meal there can cost between $50 to $75 per person if you include appetizers, main courses, desserts, and wine. I plan to return for a full review soon.

In stopping by the Butcher’s Block: A Market by RW, I found a lovely addition to the DC area’s gourmet shopping options for discerning foodies and chefs. Black-and-white tile floors and stainless steel wire shelving create a clean and spartan atmosphere that showcases the specialty merchandise, which is primarily meant to accompany meats and cheeses for sale. The Butcher’s Block offers exotica such as black lava and pink Himalayan salts, along with varieties of vinegar, oils, capers, and Gaillard Black Truffle juice. In the small refrigerated dairy and drink section, you can buy anything from Belgian beer to Devon double cream and truffle butter.

Oenophiles should note the store’s wide selection of good and reasonably priced wines. The friendly manager, Selena Zellers, mentioned that the Butcher’s Block’s wines and champagnes mostly range between $15 to $100, with about 60 percent under $25. The management plans to hold tastings and other events frequently. Zellers added that Chef Wiedmaier opened the shop because he had tired of the dearth of good meats available in the DC metropolitan area. You can find duck sausage, veal chops, quail, squab, and lamb tenderloins here, along with cheeses and other options. Also, the deli counter offers casual to-go sandwiches for busy tourists and office workers grabbing lunch or dinner. So far the turkey club sandwich with red onion marmalade and avocado has been the biggest seller.

This high-end but down-to-earth restaurant complex and four-star hotel provide a charming balance between the modern and traditional in both décor and cuisine. The four-star Lorien Hotel & Spa makes a very pleasing addition to the upper end of King Street in Old Town, Alexandria. In addition, the food I tasted at the attractively appointed Brabo foreshadows a memorable experience when I return to dine there and at the Tasting Room.

(Special thanks to Moshe Zusman, who provided copyrighted photos of the lemon tarts and the carving station for this piece. Please see his web site for more information about his photography.)

Brabo at the Lorien Hotel & Spa
1600 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
www.braborestaurant.com

Not seeking new landscapes but having new eyes

S. came down from Boston for Inauguration, so we decided to celebrate her birthday at The Grille in Old Town.

Morrison House looks like a private residence, and its formal dinning room is lovely and very old-school, the way one might remember those rooms one was normally not allowed to go into as a child. But if you go straight down the hall, following the happy chatter and the live music (thus far I've heard a piano player, acoustic guitarists and even a regular or two taking to the stage) you will find an upbeat and cozy bar area, clad in red leather and wooden floors. You will also see Chef Denis Marron checking in on his patrons and happily discussing his culinary creations. The ambiance there is relaxed and jovial, even though you are in the same restaurant and dining on the same menu. The Grille is less grand dame and more fun cousin - and a place that must be visited on whim and occasion alike.

S. and I started with hot cider cocktails that were well balanced - sweet, but with a kick. We both went for the Chef's tasting menus (3, 4 or 6 courses for 45, 65 or 75 USD) and I was happily surprised by some classics as well as new creations. We were busy catching up and marveling at the fact that the day had come when we were not having graduate student fare, so I didn't prepare myself for the Apple-Parsnip Bisque, a heavy soup poured table-side over duck confit, apple chips and cinnamon espuma. Though the description on the menu perfectly indicated the fact that this would be a sweet soup, my first spoonful was bewildering - the only thing I can compare the overall note to is fresh-baked cinnamon bread. Stirring all the ingredients, especially the salt in the duck confit made all the flavors pair together for a very pleasant effect. As we waited four our entrees, our server told us that the chef would be sending out another course. A few days prior I had been very enthusiastic about the new scallop appetizer at Domaso and, not one to shy from chefs wanting to one-up each other for me, we tried a wonderful flight of scallops - a crudo, a cold smoked scallop with a lemon gelee, a seared scallop with bacon espuma and coquilles st. jaques, a baked preparation. Not only is the dish a wonderful demonstration of new techniques (my favorite, the cold smoke, was presented still encased in a smoke-filled shot glass) but a great way to show the versatility of a great ingredient at its peak. I've been torn over both dishes for a week and must pronounce The Grille the winner for its variety and its playful but sophisticated approach to getting diners to venture out of the traditional seared scallop.

For our main courses, S. had the veal, a braised veal breast presented over glazed root vegetables with black truffle jus and crispy sweetbreads. The compact presentation makes the most of the tender meat and the vegetables give it an interesting play on textures. I had the monkfish, braised in red wine with brussel sprouts and brown butter spaetzle. The mokfish tail was fantastic - a firm meat, much like lobster but less fragrant. The brussel sprouts had just the right crunch in them. The spaetzle, a staple of Austrian cooking, was a bit dry but its flavor complimented the fish.

Intrepid diners that we are (or making up for the days when we would save up and go to Finale's in lieu of actually eating dinner) S. and I had desserts. S. got the Coconut, which had coconut four ways: Coconut Cream Pie, Coconut Macaroon,
Pina Colada Foam, Saffron & Coconut Marshmallow. Learning from my previous mistakes, S. tackled the foam first and went on to enjoy every bit of tropic that the ingredient afforded her. I had a Red Velvet cake that has ruined all red velvet cakes for me (yes, even the Magnolia Bakery cupcakes in New York). The cake is heavy but not dense, toped with a chocolate ganache and the traditional cheese icing between layers. The batter has beets in it, further amplifying the refreshing taste of the beet gelato. The plate also had a dusting of beet powder, which I had never tasted. It's texture paired well with the overall smoothness of the ganache and the gelato, giving it an extra dimension: grit.

A wonderful meal spent in great company in a rediscovered space - what better way to kick off Inaugural weekend?

The Grille at Morrison House Hotel
116 South Alfred Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(703)838.8000
www.morrisonhouse.com

Happenings

What is it about Summer Restaurant Week that makes it so different from its winter counterpart? Is it the fact that the city is mostly empty as summer ebbs? Fresher ingredients? People in less of a hurry to warm up? I pondered these and other questions as I made my way up King Street (on the first truly hot day after a stint of glorious weather) to have dinner at Vermilion. I'd heard good things about it, and I go to Buzz, part of the same restaurant group, at least once a week.

As a space, Vermilion takes advantage of its location, a few blocks up from the King Street metro station. The converted house (all red hues, by decor and design) has a beautiful bar that looks like an updated saloon, and the upstairs has a wine wall that has probably tempted more than one patron. Window seating is sparse but readily available. If this bar were smoke-free, I'd make it a staple for Happy Hour.

The Restaurant Week menu also included wine specials. Though I often crave white wine during the summer, I find red to be a better choice for a heavy meal. We ordered a bottle red Côtes du Rhône, probably a Syrah/Granache mix (I have noticed that the French are now labeling by grape and not by terroir, but this was one of the old time bottles). The wine was lovely - bright, but with a bite.

As a first course, I had the chilled roasted pepper soup, which came in a very dramatic bowl that made the best use of the fiery orange on white contrast. The soup was garnished with pine nuts and a dollop of cream, and the texture was grainy - a way to preserve the consistency of the peppers. T. had the Eastern shore scallops - a dish I love but that I've had to stop ordering, as I always wound up eating the same thing. They looked perfectly cooked and considering the speed at which they were eaten, were probably quite good. I had read great things about the kitchen's handmade pasta, but we both chose the bistro fillet. Potatoes would have put this steak on another seasonal menu, so the garnish was blue cheese (maytag, as a crisp) and enough cherry tomatoes (red and yellow) to be a salad on its own, cut into halves and sprinkled with salt.

After an ill-advised staring contest, we took on dessert. The pasty chef had a chance to show off, showcasing the ingredients in two and three ways. The Peppermint Pattie featured two types of chocolate (as a cake and as a liquid) and three types of mint (sprig, cream, and the best mint ice cream I've ever had). The goat's milk cheesecake, a fluffy concoction hovering over strawberries mixed with wine, was a refreshing bite.

I look forward to trying their bar menu, smoke and all.

Vermilion Restaurant
1120 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
703 684 9669
www.vermilionrestaurant.com