An Evening at Brabo

When describing Old Town, the guide book I bought shortly before moving to DC 5 years ago states, "It's a relief, after the expansive boulevards and monuments of DC, to walk around a town built on a more human scale." I spent the better part of two years commuting to Alexandria daily, and found myself falling for its less over-eagerly preserved charms. Old Town idiosyncrasies make it particularly taxing to make the trip: street parking is hard to find, traffic police is relentless, the Farmer's Market closes much too early, and the heavy tourist traffic complicates the separation of the wheat from the chaff, restaurant-wise. The boom in great new options in DC not withstanding, Old Town is still worth the trip, especially in the summer months.

We'd been to Brabo before. Aside from a very kind invitation to try out the new Spring menu, I have bought picnic baskets from Butcher's Block, their sister store, which I greatly enjoyed, and Brasserie Beck, another Robert Wiedmaier restaurant, is one of my favorites. The dining room at Brabo breaks up the space into various areas, all with directed lightning, which makes the space more intimate. Many of the tables are flanked by banquettes (which are a bit too low, or perhaps I am too short). The chairs are calculatedly mismatched. The bar, out by the front, is located by a large window, which makes the bar's copper treatment glisten. We started out the meal with a round of cocktails. I ordered a Cherry Pisco Sour, partly because I am always comparing iterations of the Peruvian cocktail to my own. Brabo's version, unfortunately, did not compare favorably. The maraschino overpowers the drink, making it too sweet and the color slightly off-putting. Other cocktails, such as the Side Car and the Aperitivo, looked more promising. I'll keep it in mind for my next visit.

We started the meal with a hamachi crudo (which is on the Bar menu), perfectly cut pieces of young yellowtail drizzled with sweet soy, yuzu, and ginger milk. The entire table was wondering what the sweet sauce was - the taste was of plums and figs, which paired marvelously with the fish. As this is a Robert Wiedmaier restaurant, mussels are prominently featured. I ordered the night's special, soft shell crab. The crab was lightly fried and rested on a bed of corn and bacon, giving the dish a distinctly local flair. The greens were lightly dressed, and the flavors complemented each other.

One of the highlights of the meal was our initial wine pairing, a Domaine des Malandes "Cuvee Tour du Roy" Vielles Vignes 2007 Chablis. I seldom see it in restaurants, and this is one of the only ways I will enjoy a wine made from Chardonnay grapes. Chablis is a dry white wine, with a pure, bright aroma and taste that makes it great for pairing with food. As a plus, the store and restaurant share a liquor license, and most of the wines are available for purchase.

The menu at Brabo is very eclectic, and has more American and Asian inspired dishes. It was a cold and rainy night, so after much consideration between the Lamb Nicoise Salad and the Roasted Breast of Pekin Duck. I chose the duck, which stood out from all the other entrees. The presentation is extremely original: the duck's leg is presented as a Spring Roll, which is a creative use of the fat, and the kitchen added the Asian flair by infusing the duck jus with a hint of chili. The duck was cooked just right, and was extremely juicy. We had several side dishes, including roasted artichokes (that could have done with less gruyere) and asparagus in a bacon vinaigrette, a fun way to add some smoke and crunch.Our entrees were paired with a David Noyes Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir that did the remarkable feat of pairing with fish, scallops, pork, and duck.

As no tasting exercise could be complete without trying dessert, we went with our server's suggestions -he knew the menu inside out, and was very enthusiastic about the kitchen's offerings. The night's special was strawberry shortcake, with the season's earliest local strawberries making their grand entrance. Hard as it was to resist the waffle, I ordered the Peanut Butter bar, a very light peanut butter mousse resting on top of flourless chocolate cake. The dessert is not overly sweet, and incorporates the peanut's saltiness to its best advantage.

End (or start) your King Street stroll there. You won't be disappointed.


Brabo
1600 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
www.braborestaurant.com

Brabo and the Lorien Hotel & Spa Splash Out on a Spring Evening

In late March I was invited to the official opening of the Lorien Hotel & Spa at 1600 King Street in Old Town, Alexandria. Part of the Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, the Lorien Hotel & Spa is connected to Chef Robert Wiedmaier’s newest formal restaurant, Brabo, and accompanying business-casual Brabo’s Tasting Room. Both opened for business on February 12. The chef’s accompanying gourmet fromagerie, charcuterie and wine market, The Butcher’s Block: A Market by RW, unlocked its doors just over a week ago. Chef Wiedmaier and staff provided savory hors d’oeuvres for those circulating throughout the hotel and a sampler of desserts for guests who stopped by Brabo afterwards.

The Lorien Hotel & Spa combines an Old Town-appropriate exterior with a cozy and luxurious modern feel inside. A spacious open-air courtyard featured traditional red brick walls and a copper roof, along with a square fountain featuring floating candles and a tall clock. A wide blue slate path led to the entrance as invitees wandered, sipping flutes of champagne here and in the hotel-enclosed patio, as a square fireplace flamed in the chilly air.

The courtyard and patio area’s atmosphere offered a solid contrast to the cool-hued reception area, which featured modern and traditional furniture in shades of robin’s egg blue, dark teal, chocolate, and white. A circular copper leatherette chair picks up color from outside and is an appealing place to wait for a hotel guest. Candles floated in varied glass cylinders of water, which matched the uneven heights of the white-paper–covered books lying on shelves in a pleasant anteroom leading to the open brick patio. Designer Vicente Wolf told me that his “library” was meant to be primarily abstract and sculptural. I found that the shelves of books seem to add space to the low-ceilinged chamber instead of compounding its intimacy.

While tasting the savory bites created for the opening, I sipped a Belgian Bavik Pilsner that served as a malleable accompaniment to Chef Wiedmaier’s diverse and Belgian-inspired dishes. Wasabi was supposed to accompany the tuna tataki on cucumber, but it proved surprisingly bland. Also, the endive leaves with chèvre, while fresh, seemed ho-hum and monotextural without extra crunch. The delicious mini-cassoulet was appropriately earthy for a cool spring twilight, however. The white beans cooked in duck fat were rich and the lamb merguez and duck sausages added spice and bite. Smoked trout mousse on garlic-rubbed crostini was also tasty. Two other standouts were the light and crispy tempura shrimp in a citrus sauce and perfectly cooked pork tenderloin in a sweet chili reduction with mango chutney, ginger, and raisins. These savory hors d’oeuvres were served throughout the courtyard and patio areas for the gala.

At the hotel bar my friend tried a Brabo Punch, which I sampled also. Excessively sweet in combining Captain Morgan, amaretto, cranberry and pineapple juice, it seemed more appropriate for a beachside bar in the Bahamas. A flamboyant White Cosmo combining vodka, triple sec, lime and white cranberry juices showcased its ingredients better, and billowing smoke from a pellet of dry ice at the bottom of the glass made this cocktail visually festive and fun. It was only available for the party, unfortunately, but I will keep it in mind when dreaming up my own concoctions.

An array of mini-desserts and appropriate drinks, such as a silk-smooth Chocolate Martini with an amaretto cookie-crumb rim, introduced the restaurant to those visiting for the first time. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Brabo has a warm, unpretentious elegance about it. Its white tables, orange light sconces, chocolate walls flecked with cream, and seats alternating between traditional white wood and contemporary brown leather create an inviting and classy ambience. Near the door leading to King Street, an intimate, copper-topped bar offers a lovely place to meet a friend, with conical lamps throwing a diffuse spotlight on the plush copper bar stools.

Chef Wiedmaier and sous-chef Kate Baltren deserve kudos for the dessert sampler. They included standards like strawberries dipped in white and dark chocolate, along with a simple oval Belgian chocolate with a banana-caramel interior. The rose gerbet macaroons were yummy, and a tiny carrot cake layered with cream cheese and topped with a dab of cream-cheese buttercream was moist and addictive. Also, the bread pudding, which is made of leftover croissant, muffins, and other pastries, should not be missed. You will find a dessert-sized portion at the Tasting Room next door. After the heartiness of the savory items, however, I most relished the refreshing lemon tart topped with a drizzle of white chocolate, candied lemon wedge, and sprig of cilantro. A full dinner at Brabo costs from $75 to $100 or more per person, with appetizers, entrees, desserts, and a bottle of wine included.

Brabo’s Tasting Room has an agreeable clean and industrial feel, with brushed-steel counters, high ceilings, metal stools at a central long table and white-tabled booths with chocolate leatherette seats. The business-casual restaurant served mozzarella-prosciutto and duck-confit flatbreads at the gala. I could not taste them, since I arrived there after hungry visitors had inhaled all available slices. A meal there can cost between $50 to $75 per person if you include appetizers, main courses, desserts, and wine. I plan to return for a full review soon.

In stopping by the Butcher’s Block: A Market by RW, I found a lovely addition to the DC area’s gourmet shopping options for discerning foodies and chefs. Black-and-white tile floors and stainless steel wire shelving create a clean and spartan atmosphere that showcases the specialty merchandise, which is primarily meant to accompany meats and cheeses for sale. The Butcher’s Block offers exotica such as black lava and pink Himalayan salts, along with varieties of vinegar, oils, capers, and Gaillard Black Truffle juice. In the small refrigerated dairy and drink section, you can buy anything from Belgian beer to Devon double cream and truffle butter.

Oenophiles should note the store’s wide selection of good and reasonably priced wines. The friendly manager, Selena Zellers, mentioned that the Butcher’s Block’s wines and champagnes mostly range between $15 to $100, with about 60 percent under $25. The management plans to hold tastings and other events frequently. Zellers added that Chef Wiedmaier opened the shop because he had tired of the dearth of good meats available in the DC metropolitan area. You can find duck sausage, veal chops, quail, squab, and lamb tenderloins here, along with cheeses and other options. Also, the deli counter offers casual to-go sandwiches for busy tourists and office workers grabbing lunch or dinner. So far the turkey club sandwich with red onion marmalade and avocado has been the biggest seller.

This high-end but down-to-earth restaurant complex and four-star hotel provide a charming balance between the modern and traditional in both décor and cuisine. The four-star Lorien Hotel & Spa makes a very pleasing addition to the upper end of King Street in Old Town, Alexandria. In addition, the food I tasted at the attractively appointed Brabo foreshadows a memorable experience when I return to dine there and at the Tasting Room.

(Special thanks to Moshe Zusman, who provided copyrighted photos of the lemon tarts and the carving station for this piece. Please see his web site for more information about his photography.)

Brabo at the Lorien Hotel & Spa
1600 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
www.braborestaurant.com

Local Artists and Restaurateurs Turn a Glass of Water into Something Beautiful

Sometimes DC has a philanthropic buzz few cities can match. On March 24, UNICEF’s Tap Project held a fundraiser and gallery opening, “Something Beautiful,” to provide clean water for children in developing countries. Local artists decorated Pepco’s Edison Place Gallery on Eighth Street NW with a lovely array of paintings, mosaics, photographs, and sculptures depicting glasses of water. The artists ranged from those affiliated with the Corcoran School of Art to children at the SAIL (School for Arts in Learning) Public Charter School. Communications firm GMMB helped UNICEF promote the event pro bono at the donated gallery space. Attendees bid for works of art in a silent auction that took place at the end of the evening. All proceeds from the auction will go to water and sanitation programs in the countries and areas UNICEF has designated as most in need.

I wandered the space with a large crowd of artists, foodies, and other interested patrons throughout the evening. We enjoyed fresh glasses of water garnished with fruit while drinking in works of art and presentations and performances by video artists Dissident Display and local water harpist Jayme Turner. Some adventurous attendees created their own art at a painting and drawing station. This event was unique among American cities raising money for the TAP Project.

During World Water Week, March 22-28, over a hundred DC restaurants encourage patrons to donate $1 or more for a glass of clean tap water. Every dollar raised provides a child with clean drinking water for 40 days. With his wife, Polly, Chef Robert Wiedmaier, owner of local restaurants including Brasserie Beck, Marcel’s, and Brabo’s, has helped raise enthusiasm among DC restaurateurs for the Tap Project. Meshelle Armstrong, manager of Restaurant Eve, and Ruth Gresser, owner-chef of Pizzeria Paradiso, also publicized the project. After starting to participate in 2008, our increasingly vibrant restaurant culture comes in second only to New York City in the number of American dining establishments taking part in 2009. Please see this list of participating restaurants. Click here for more information about Tap DC and an innovative video PSA.

Birthday Dinner at Brasserie Beck

Family and friends and I celebrated my birthday last Friday and had quite a grand 'ole time. We met for happy hour at Poste, which has $4 beer, house wines and truffled frites during their happy hour. It was a really nice group and it was so nice to see folks I have been meaning to catch up with. We enjoyed more than a few glasses of wine (the red was a nice Pinot Noir and the white a Sauvignon Blanc), and a couple of orders of frites (which taste like they may be done in a bit of duck fat - yum), and a few hours later it came time for our reservation at the newly-opened Brasserie Beck. I actually didn't realize it just opened last Wednesday, but thank goodness I am on the email list for Marcel's, Robert Wiedmaier's other place in Foggy Bottom, and so last week I received an email indicating Beck was accepting reservations. Marcel and Beck are the names of Robert's children. We arrived to pretty much a madhouse - the host stand was crowded and the bar and table areas were more than packed. I actually know one of the bartenders as he used to work at a local place in my neighborhood, so lucky for my group we were able to be served quickly. We waited 45 minutes even with a reservation, but no matter really - we were having a great time and were enjoying checking out the venue. You enter and to your left and in front of you are seating areas and to the right is a nice and well-stocked bar. The space is minimalist with hues of dark wood, granite, stainless steal, clean lines, sturdy tablestops and bars tops and very high ceilings (probably 30 or so feet). What is really neat as well as there are numerous tv's around the bar and restaurant which display the orders coming out of the kitchen, a really nice touch. The restaurant was perhaps not expecting such a large crowd as we ended up being seated in one of the private areas toward the rear of the restaurant. It actually worked out perfectly as it was much quieter in that space and there was only one other table in the room, so we have a bit of our own party so to speak. Plus, I sat at one of the heads of the table and had a perfect view of a tv showing all of the orders coming out of the kitchen. The private room is enclosed by beveled glass panels and one entire wall is glass and showcases the restaurant's wine collection housed behind it.

Brasserie Beck is essentially a modern Belgian Bistro - it has the typical fare Belgian in origin (great mussels, steak and frites etc.), but also quite a few other offerings not necessarily Belgian but still items you would imagine can be found at a good bistro. We browsed through the wine list, which actually is really comprehensive and there are quite a few bottles under $30. We started with a bottle of Carignan-Grenache-Syrah Corbieres Domaine Sainte Eugenie from Languedoc, and at $18 it was a real deal. It was fruity and well-balanced and I thought it would pair perfectly with many of the items on the somewhat wide-ranging menu. We ended up getting several bottles of this selection. We started with two of the three preparations of mussels - Curry & Apple and Fennel & Chorizo Sausage. Each comes with a large bowl of piping hot frites and is a really nice portion. The mussels were quite large and cooked well, and I especially enjoyed the Curry variety. Jamie and Stephen wanted extra frites so they also ordered a separate order of Belgian Frites with Mayonnaise Trio. We also ordered a dozen fresh oysters which on Friday were from the West Coast and large in size but still very briny. They come with an Apple & Shallot Mignonette. I usually prefer small oysters over the large, but these were nice. Louise and I shared a bottle of Cremant de Loire "Brut Rose," Yves Lambert, France, with the lovely bivalves and it was a lovely pairing. Lucky for us no one else was really interested in enjoying the oysters with us. Amy got the cheese plate to start as well and it came with 5 ample pieces and sliced baguette. She said it was rich and delightful - there was not any left to share so I imagine it is indeed lovely. I decided to stay somewhat light after all of the appetizers, so I ordered a Spinach Salad with Caramelized Shallots, Blue Tag Cheese and a Mustart Vinaigrette. I also ordered a side of Brussel Sprouts. Lisa ordered the same two items. Stephen, Jamie, John and the rest of the group opted for more hearty selections, including Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Confit of Cabbage and Mustard Sauce, Roasted Monkfish with Peppers and Olives, and Choucroute "en Croute." My salad was delicious and fresh and I enjoyed the pairing of the rich and creamy blue cheese with the tangy mustard vinaigrette and the sweet caramelized shallots. I love brussel sprouts in any preparation, or even just steamed or raw, and these were quite nice although a bit too rich for me thanks to a creamy cheese sauce and also a bit of melted cheese over the top of the sprouts. Very tasty though. I had a bite of the Choucroute which was amazing, and the portion is quite large so most of the table got to take a sample of that dish. Everyone was too full for dessert, but Beck does have a few tempting options including Pear Tarte Tatin, Cinnamon Honey Ice Cream with Gateau of Chocolate, Belgian Bread Pudding and Caramel Cheesecake. We did, however, enjoy a large slice of the obligatory birthday cake. It was creamy and chocolately and had large flecks of dark chocolate as an accent. I am not much of a sweets person so I finished my wine and looked forward to the next venue. I really can't wait to return to Beck and probably will do so the first chance I get. A few items I look forward to trying next time include starters of Napoleon of Vine Ripe Tomato with Pipe Dream Goast Cheese and a Scallion Balsamic Dressing, Lamb Sausage with Lentils and Frisee, Toasted Garlic Baguette with Poached Eggs & Fricassee of Mushrooms, and Steak Tartare, a side of Gratin of Cauliflower, and mains of Roasted Rabbit Loin in Kriek Beer, Coq au Vin and Crispy Skate Wine a la Jacqueline with Garlic Spinach. I also look forward to enjoying more from Beck's well-priced wine list. For beer fans they also offer a separate Belgian Beer list. Such a great addition to the city, and one I would highly recommend checking out.

Poste (inside the Hotel Monaco)

555 8th Street in NW DC

www.postebrasserie.com

Brasserie Beck

1101 K Street in NW DC

www.beckdc.com