Winging It

B. and I were walking down Wilson Boulevard trying to figure out where to have dinner. Since the weather was nice, we wanted to sit outside, which gave us several options around the Clarendon metro. We had talked about getting Chicken wings but Hard Times Cafe didn't get us too excited. B. pointed out Mexicali Blues and it seemed like there was much merriment, so we went inside. I perused the menu and verified that they had Pupusas on the menu (my rule of thumb for Mexican restaurants is that they should not call themselves that if they feature pupusas) - but the atmosphere was fun, the wait for a table reasonable, and the menu clearly listed pupusas as a Salvadorean specialty.

I went to get us a round of drinks and verified that the Pan-Latinamericanism of the place extended to the cocktail list, as it had several kinds of Mojitos (Cuban!). I decided to check my gastronomic geopolitics at the door and ordered a mojito for B. and a pomegranate margarita for myself. Pomegranate, more often identified with Persian food, is widely used in several Mexican dishes, including Chiles en Nogada. To my dismay the bartender spoke no Spanish, but I heard plenty of it coming from the kitchen. Though the mojito was nothing special - Rumba Cafe in Adams Morgan serves my favorite one - the Margarita was very good, refreshing but with a kick.

While we waited for our table perched on stools by a picture window I kept scoping dishes to figure out what would pass muster. Anything I saw with yellow cheese I dismissed. Mexicali is the capital of Baja California and Baja cooking is very bright, clean and tasty. B. and I decided to get fish tacos, Baja style (capeados, a form of battered flash frying for the fish, topped with pickled cabbage and a spicy guacamole served on a corn tortilla). For a starter, I was happy to see that the menu did have Chicken Wings, at least for the night, a special called Gloria's Smokey Alitas. The tacos were good, a bit on the greasier side for the fish, but with a great crunch thanks to the cabbage and in need of absolutely no seasoning. The chicken wings were spectacular - I am sorry not to see them on the regular menu. The wings were marinated in a tomatillo sauce (small green tomatoes mixed with green chiles and onions) and an ancho chile, which gave them an incredible smoke. They came with a jalapeno sour cream - I couldn't taste any jalapeno but was thrilled to see cilantro and onions, chopped and diced, mixed into the cream. This is the traditional fresh garnish of most street tacos and for me a surefire sign that it's namesake was either a Mexican woman or a rather inspired muse. I've never had wings like that - a depth of flavor and texture, cold upon almost scalding, smokey on fresh, a truly great and complex starter that hit the spot and even made me a bit homesick.

2933 Wilson Boulevard
Arlington, Virginia
703.812.9352
http://www.mexicali-blues.com/

Firsts

Low-grade, entirely superfluous instances of unfairness are a particularly grating brand of the annoying. Not content with having two of my favorite restaurants (El Chalan and Kaz Sushi Bistro) around the corner from my gym, I had to try Primi Piatti tonight to add to the culinary minefield that seeks to undo my half-hearted efforts to work out. Mr. Savino Recine's fine Italian establishment has been there for over 20 years. Until tonight, I had persistently walked past it several times a week. I had heard good things about the food and the outside seating always seemed pleasant, but nothing particularly exciting. I chose this place for its location and because I needed some jet-lag appropriate food.

My out of town dinner companions wanted beer but the selections (Moretti, Bud Light, Heineken and Corona) was not to their liking - no Sam Adams or Peroni. We had a surprisingly good Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. I did not order it, so I'll have to go back and figure out what winery it came from. For a first course we ordered a crostini with ricotta cheese that came with slices of pepperoni at room temperature. The cheese had a wonderful texture - firm but creamy. I seldom have ricotta as a stand alone, but it was a perfect counterpoint to the crunch of the bread and the slight fire of the meat. For a hot appetizer we had Mozarella In Carroza, a lightly fried mozzarella cheese with whole wheat bread and flavored with anchovy-caper sauce. Though there was no meat, the consistency reminded me of a croque monsieur. The sauce gave it a good amount of seasoning without competing with the cheese.

Though Primi Piatti is famous for its pizzas, we opted for pastas and a Veal Scaloppini. The veal came with a light sauce of marsala wine, oyster mushrooms and thyme, with a side of sauteed spinach. The fettuccini came with mixed wild mushrooms and was perfectly cooked. I had the Tonnarelli, a Roman specialty consisting of thick fettuccini with sea scallops flavored with spicy tomato sauce. I will order pretty much any dish with scallops, but this was a pleasant surprise. The sauce was acidic enough to complement the taste of the scallops and the pasta cooked to the point were the textures could be differentiated while eating. I don't think I've seen this on any other menu in DC, and I really enjoyed it.

The portions are quite generous, so we skipped dessert. If the pictures on the wall are any indication, I'll have to go back for the sweets and the magic shows.

Primi Piatti
2013 I St NW
Washington, DC 20006
(202) 223-3600

Tasty Spring Dishes

Spring is such a lovely time of year, ahhh. Certainly for many reasons, not the least of which is the bounty of food items that come into season. Hope you take time out to enjoy these simple and tasty dishes that for me are perfect this time of year.

Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms, Chives and Fleur de Sel

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/3 cup finely chopped mushrooms

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

4 eggs, lightly beaten

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Fleur de sel or other finishing salt (kosher salt is fine), to taste

Melt butter in a medium skillet. Sauté the mushrooms for 3 minutes, then add the chives and cook for another minute, until fragrant. Add eggs and black pepper. Cook the eggs over very low heat, stirring constantly, until cooked to the desired doneness. Add fleur de sel and scramble for just a few more seconds. Serve hot.

Pinzimonio

Vegetables

Olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Prepare a big bowl of fresh tasty vegetables, cut into strips or chunks. Good choices are peppers, cauliflower, artichokes, celery, carrots, etc. Put olive oil in a small bowl and add salt and pepper to taste. Dip the vegetables into the oil and enjoy. Y ou can also have other condiment options available - various types of mustards work well and balsamic vinegar is a nice touch. Pairs wonderfully with a crisp, dry white wine.

Chicken Breasts with Zucchini

4 chicken breasts, weighing a pound in total

10 ounces zucchini, sliced into very thin rounds

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons butter1 sage leaf

1/4 cup olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

Pinch of thyme

Small bunch of Italian flat-leaf parsley, minced

Flour

Kosher salt

White pepper

An ounce of shredded Swiss or Fontina cheese

Heat the oil in a pot, and sauté the garlic and parsley for a minute or two. Before the garlic begins to brown add the zucchini. Cook for a few minutes more, then sprinkle a half cup of cool water over the pot, add a pinch of thyme, and salt to taste. Turn down the heat to as low as possible, cover, and cook the zucchini until they are done and the water has evaporated. In the meantime, preheat your oven to 400 degrees. While it is warming up, lightly pound the chicken breasts and flour them, giving them a good shake to remove excess flour. Pick a pot large enough for the chicken breasts to lie flat that can go both on the stove and into the oven, and melt the butter with the leaf of sage. As soon as it begins to crackle add the chicken breasts and cook them until they begin to brown, turning them once or twice. Sprinkle them with the white wine, crumble the salt over them, and season them with pepper. When the liquid is reduced by two thirds, remove the pot from the fire. Scoop the zucchini over the chicken breasts, dust everything with the cheese, cover the pot, and slip it into the oven for about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken breasts to a heated serving dish, spoon the pan drippings over them, and serve.

A little bit of France

The block around the Cleveland Park Metro has several restaurants I visit regularly, including Indique and Dino. Though Lavandou has been around for years, this was my first visit. Having Bistro du Coin and La Chaumiere at walking distance also made me reconsider the trek more than once.

Lavandou is everything a neighborhood French restaurant ought to be - friendly, well-priced, and with lots of potential patrons gawking through the picture window. We were there for brunch but upon sneaking a peek at the (entirely French) wine list, I found a nice selection of bottles, half-bottles and glasses. The specials board announced No Corkage fee Mondays and All You Can Eat Mussels on Tuesdays. Though they seemed to be a bit short-staffed (drinks took especially long) we were seated right away and the bread basket made a speedy appearance.

As as its name and decor attests, Lavandou features Provencal Cuisine - the Southern, Mediterranean region of France celebrated by painters and chefs alike. The dishes are less heavy than other French eateries in DC, and a strong emphasis is placed on olive oil, sea food, and aromatics. The four of us had the Easter Prix Fixe, three courses for 37 USD (tax, tip and beverages not included).

For a first course we ordered fresh duck pate, asparagus with truffle oil and parmessan cheese, and coddled eggs with cheese, cream and salmon eggs. Coddled eggs are not for the faint of heart - they are cooked in simmering water, in their shells or in ramekins, until set. The texture is a step above of a raw egg, but the flavor is wonderful, especially as it offset the creaminess of the dairy. The salmon eggs added little in terms of flavor, but they were definitively there, texture-wise. I spooned the mixture on the toast points provided and kept my gaze away. The pate was fresh and had the texture of tuna salad. The asparagus was just right for Easter and its promise of spring.

For second course, we ordered a linguini with sea food (mostly mussels and shrimp), baked salmon on a bed of leeks, and lamb steak. The sauce for the linguini was the best part of the dish - the flavors were balanced and the tomato tasted incredibly fresh. The pasta was made on the premises but was slightly overcooked (which, granted, is a matter of preference). The salmon was well-cooked but the leeks were confusing. They were billed as a fondue (as opposed to the more famous Swiss variation, this is a preparation of vegetables cooked over low heat until very soft and reduced to a pulp. The fondue included the green parts of the leeks and, for some reason, was very citrusy. I love having lamb for Easter, but this was my first time encountering a lamb steak. The portion was generous and perfectly seasoned, a straightforward portion of protein with no flourishes or extra sauce. I enjoyed every bite.

For dessert we ordered stuffed apple beignets, choux, Grand Marnier and chocolate crepes, and the themed dessert, "Ouefs a la Niege," also known as Floating Island. As with the rest of the meal, this is more about aromas than high technique. The beignets were the simplest - battered apples, deep fried with a side of compote. The crepes were basic but made with good ingredients, and the choux were as light as dough can possibly be. The floating island consisted of meringue floating on vanilla bean custard, a refresher after all that lamb.

With that wine list and the promise of all you can eat mussels, I will never talk myself out of taking the metro again.


Lavandou
3321 Connecticut Ave NW
Washington D.C. 20008
(202) 966-3003 www.lavandoudc.com

Second Opinions

I try to never write up a restaurant until I've visited it a few times and have more to go on than my initial reaction. The first time I visited Oya was for Restaurant Week last August. A friend suggested we try it for lunch, and prior to that I had never heard of it. Before heading out, I went on their website to verify the address and was surprised to see how much copy they dedicated to their interior design. I called E. and she had gotten the same impression.

The kindest thing I could say about Oya's decor back then was that it was obvious that a lot of thought, care, and money had been put into the different design elements. It struck me as a design project run amok, akin to something you would see on Top Chef's ugly sister, Top Design. Granted, the look of daylight on the different elements in the room - white marble, a feather-covered column, a cellophane-like material surrounding a glass window to the kitchen that had a cascade over it, a fire runner - was simply too much. The lounge area, which features red roses, had no clear connection to the rest of the space. I enjoyed the food, but the place itself distracted me so much that the only thing I could remember were the scallops.

An invitation prompted me to give Oya a second chance. As I prepared myself to be assaulted by the decor, I was surprised that my dinner companions not only did not respond badly to it, but actually kind of liked it. I'll be the first to admit that the harshness is taken away by the soft lightning scheme, and that people all over the dinning room and the lounge seemed to be having a good time.

Upon opening my menu I discovered that Oya has a prix-fix year round - 20 dollars for lunch and 30 for dinner. Since the place is French/Asian fusion, this is a good way to try the different menu elements. I had a cilantro daiquiri (dare you to spot the 10 differences it has with a mojito) but only the bottom was deeply flavored. I should have probably let it seep more, or the bartender should have crushed the leaves a bit to unleash the aromatics.

The three of us ordered from the prix fix - I started with a sirloin tataki on a bed of greens and blood oranges. The tataki (thick slices, partially cooked with citrus) had a wonderful texture, and the flavors combined quite well. As is often the case with fusion places, you never know if you should reach for the fork or the chopsticks, but I knew only my first course would give me such a choice. One of my friends ordered the goat cheese with caramelized apples, and pronounced it a fine plate. For second course, we all had the scallops. The scallops are definitively worth remembering and recommending. They are served with hen of woods mushrooms, truffle jus and long noodles. The scallops are perfectly cooked, slightly sweet, and pair very well with the pasta. For dessert we all had bread pudding with caramelized bananas, which is a good if not stellar dessert.

I am glad I gave Oya a second chance, but for the pleasures of harmonious design, I'll head over to Central or Brasserie Beck.

Oya Restaurant and Lounge
799 9th St NW
Washington, DC 20001
(202) 393-1400
www.oyadc.com

International Wine & Food Festival 2008

I won't be in town, but if you are, check out this year's (new! improved! hopefully less crowded) International Wine & Food Festival at the Ronald Reagan Building:

Monday, February 25

* Café Trope-Chef Howsoon Cham
o Four Vines Winery
* OYA-Sommelier Andrew Stover
o Amity Vineyards

Tuesday, February 26

* Bangkok Joe's-Chef Aulie Bunyarataphan
o Moet Hennessy USA, Rodney Strong Vineyards and others
* PS 7s-Chef Peter Smith

Wednesday, February 27

* Butterfield 9-Chef Michael Harr

Thursday, February 28

* Equinox- Chef Todd Gray
o Adelsheim Vineyard
* Rustico Restaurant-Chef Frank Morales and Beer Director Greg Engert
o Blue Moon Brewery and Dogfish Head Craft Brewery

For tickets, call 1-800-343-1174 or visit www.dcwinefestival.com

A House Divided

Conventional wisdom dictates that one should hold off trying new restaurants immediately after they open. Kinks will invariably have to be ironed out and the staffs needs time to get used to the flow of the kitchen and with each other. Café Tropé is on my way home, and since it opened in late December I figured it was time to check it out.

I made reservations through Open Table and requested an accessible table. We were a party of 4, and when I got there I was informed that I was the first to check in and was directed to the Bar. I am not a fan of the policy of only seating complete parties (which makes no sense if you have a reservation, as opposed to being a walk-in. If restaurants do have said policy, they should let patrons know in advance. Miscommunication ensued, and I wound up waiting without need - the rest of my party was there, hidden in the back room. That being said, when we needed the back door the manager was very helpful, apologized for the wait and the misunderstanding, and sent over a bottle of Cava. Our waiter was friendly but brand-new. The service is not bad, just extremely frazzled. I hope they hit their stride soon, because the food is wonderful. The menu is French Caribbean, but it is more fusion than straight from the islands.

Tapas originated as bar food, and as such are not meant to be full meals. As with mezze, they are meant to be shared on a communal table, and a good reference are the portions served at Jaleo in Penn Quarter and Bethesda. The portions at Café Tropé are bigger than conventional tapas, and are served in very dramatic flatware. The problem with this is that it does not allow for easy sharing, and are more conducive to eating one small plate per person per course. Not dissuaded by the lack of table space, we tried a cross section of the menu, and I encourage anyone going there for the first time to do the same. I did not even look at the wine list, but the mojitos were flavorful if not remarkable.

We stared with a spicy pork salad, which came with greens (spinach and lamb lettuce), carrots and jicama, dressed with a lime infused vinaigrette. The pork portion was not big, but it was perfectly cooked and had a dollop of salsa for heat. From the vegetarian section, we chose the butternut squash with cinnamon cream. It had a wonderful color and texture, and I suspect the soup offering will become broth-based by summer. From the poultry section, we went with the Jamaican jerk chicken lollipops. The chicken was well cooked and seasoned, and was easy to split amongst all of us. The hash - vidalia onions and cabbage potatoes - elevated the dish by providing contrasting textures.

For a second round we ordered the rack of lamb with onion mint pistou, the adobo spiced duck, the crab cake and stuffed Bengal-style stuffed lobster tail. The meats were all well cooked and beautifully presented. The crab cake paired wonderfully with diced avocado and roasted corn salsa. The lobster was either a very small Maine lobster or a rather large Caribbean one, but it held its own with the spices and the chayote, a cousin to squash and cucumbers that is not often seen here but is a staple in Mexican and Central American cooking.

I wanted to try the sweet potato creme brulée for dessert, but they had run out of it for the evening. We had a lava cake with some fresh ice cream, which was pleasant but not particularly original.

I will give it a few months and try again.

Café Tropé
2121 P Street, NW
Washington DC 20037
www.cafetropedc.com