Round Up

Seems like fall snuck up on us. A few things we are pondering for the days ahead, courtesy of our Twitter Timeline.

1. We really wanna check out Yards Park.

2. Saturday brunch is the perfect time to try out the Bacon Dishes recommended by Lauren at City Search DC that we haven't had the pleasure to eat.

3. Even though we prefer our produce seasonally segregated, few things beat a morning at the Dupont Circle Farmers' Market.

4. Maria bleeds HOYA Blue. We were featured in The Guide.

5. Next Wednesday we are going to party like we are 200. Cinco de Mayo will have nothing on Mexican Independence Day, the drinking holiday of the food-obsessed.

Rolling Thunder

Here's the thing: I hail from cow country. I love steak, refuse to think about barbeque as "seasonal food," and commiserate with Anthony Bourdain when he expresses his disdain for the vegetarian lifestyle. Comeuppance can take many forms, and for me, it has appeared in the form of gallstones. Too young to part with any of my internal organs just yet, I've had to adjust my diet and cut out fats whenever possible. In this new fat and spicy food offset modality of eating, I have to look for alternatives that will not deprive my dining companions of the good eats they so rightly deserve.

As burger places are giving cupcake shops a run for their money in our fair city, I've decided to try the leanest thing on the menu at several places, including vegetarian patties (the one I'll happily eat again: the house-made patties available as any of the Band of Burgers at DC9). But alas, something was always missing. The lean burger (be it turkey or veggie) was an afterthought, underwhelming and barely seasoned.

Last week, A., B. and I wen to check out Thunder Burger and Bar, sister restaurant to Bodega, at the site of the well-intentioned but often unfocused News Cafe on M street. Anyone familiar with Bodega will see the same designer's hand at work: bold colors, dramatic lighting, dark wood and, to drive the biker motif home, graffiti. Except for the narrow door, you'd be hard-pressed to remember what News Cafe looked like (as DC-Wrapped Dates nailed it, Ed Hardy-esque). The design, flatware and sheer size put it in the realm of restaurant, (though its burgers are at a similar price point to BGR, except for the tip). Service is attentive, but not overly fussy. Condiments are served with the burgers or brought out on request.

Thunder has an extensive beer list with the usual suspects and some brewers I had never seen in DC. As it was a hot summer day we all ordered draft beers on the lighter side of the spectrum.

For starters, we ordered Buffalo Wings and some breaded oysters (which seem to go on and off the menu). The oysters were fine, but nothing special. The real standout were the wings, which are both grilled and fried. We ordered them medium (again, in deference to my gall bladder) and the grilling gives them a hint of smoke, coupled with a wonderful crunch from the lightly fried skin. The blue cheese is on the less pungent side and serve its purpose of cooling off the wing. I would happily go back to Thunder just for these.

For our main course, A. and B. dutifully joined me on my quest for lean options. Aside from 4 different types of salads, Thunder offers venison and buffalo burgers as well as salmon and crab cake alternatives. For the sake of methodology (it pained me to ignore the Love Me Tender, a kobe beef burger), we ordered Expecting to Fly, a turkey burger, and the Portobello Road. The Portobello was wonderful-in a nod to tradition it is served with roasted red peppers and swiss cheese, but the zucchini and walnut pesto makes this a true original. To my delight, the lettuce (Boston Bibb) and tomato were fresh and flavorful. The turkey burger was missing some salt, but made up for this shortcoming with its toppings: avocado, paired with the acidity and crunch of endives and apples. Burgers come with a side of fries (which came close to imperiling the good efforts on my behalf to cut fats but the ones I did have were lovely and piping hot).

Desserts are American classics, but what drew our attention was the Banana Split. Caramelized bananas, with three scoops of chocolate, vanilla and strawberry ice cream. The best one by far was the chocolate, which had the consistency of frozen pudding. The strawberry was remarkably fresh, and it was topped by chocolate croutons and shave almonds that gave the plate some crunch. An ideal and very fun dessert to share, and one that could well warrant its own trip to Thunder.

A burger bar with a well-rounded menu within walking distance from my house makes gallstones seem less like a cosmic joke.


Thunder Burger and Bar
(202) 333-2888
3056 M St NW
Washington, DC 20007
http://www.thunderburger.com/

Imagine Mie N Yu

Last week, O. and I were invited to sample the Blind Tiger Chef's Tasting Menu at Mie N Yu. I used to work (and still live) a few blocks away from Mie N Yu, and have always found myself appreciating the ambition of its concept rather than its actually culinary prowess. Much like Yo Yo Ma's Silk Road Ensemble, the attempt to represent so many traditions and approaches makes for an interesting combination.

At $25 per per person, Blind Tiger (named after Prohibition-Era speakeasies, as you need to know about it through various digital platforms, including various blogs) is a good way to sample the wide array of dishes available at Mie N Yu, many with ingredients that are locally sourced. The menu also offers 50% off listed prices on select bottles of wine, which include a few surprises (I was very much inclined toward the Idaho wine for sheer novelty). I've normally gone to the bar at Mie N Yu only, and was pleasantly surprised to see such an expansive wine list (with a helpful pairing guide). O. and I started the meal with some cocktails. O. went for Buddha's Blues, a mix of fresh juices with acai liquor and Absolut Berri Acai Vodka. I have no opinion on the Acai berry debate, but she did declare it a fun alternative to her usual cranberry/vodka. I had the Pied Piper, a champagne cocktail with Perrier-Jouet Brut, grapefuit, pineapple and peychaud's Bitters. While the bubbles were definitively there, the strong acidity overpowered the champagne, and the bitters kept it from the realm of the mimosa.

As anyone who's ever peeked through the window, the best part of this restaurant is it's décor. There is much to look at, but the multi-level approach keeps you from becoming overwhelmed. Blind Tiger is only offered Sunday through Thursday. Our server, who was attentive and relaxed, made sure that we took the time to enjoy our dishes - which is a nice departure from the mid-week grind. That being said, it is best to go when you have ample time to dine in order to make the best of the experience.

For a first course, I had the Zaatar Hummus with Ful. I've had these separately but never together (though this is a common combination in the Middle East). The olives were perfect - plump and briny. For such a big portion of hummus, I would have like more bread, as the only way to finish it all was with a fork. Though the level of spice was very good, my main issue with this dish was the temperature - it was ice cold. While the temperature did not affect the flavor, the texture was off. It also reminded me of eating hummus straight out of the container (something I do more often than I care to admit). However, given the chance to adjust to room temperature, I am sure the dish would work. O. had the Sumonomo Blue Crab Salad, which she enjoyed.

As a second course, I had the Beijing Style Lacquered Duck. Duck is one of my favorite proteins, and I order it more often than not. The duck's local (from PA), and the portion size was not overwhelming. The Hoisin sauce had a very pleasant tang, which complimented the glaze very well. O. had the Char Masala Lamb Kabobs, also locally sourced. As an arbiter of lamb entrées everywhere, she liked this one.

My favorite dish on the menu was the last course. I was completely surprised by the Pakistani Cinnamon and Ginger Stripped Bass. The yogurt casserole concentrated all the flavors and aromas wonderfully, a treat for nose and tongue alike. In line with its commitment to sustainable food, the sea bass is sustainably raised. I would have never expected such a wonderful fish dish at this restaurant, and it was a great way to finish the tasting menu.


Sit back, relax, and enjoy the journey.


Mie N Yu
3125 M St NW
Washington, DC 20007
www.mienyu.com

C is for cookie

D. and I were out enjoying the sunshine, mushing our way through M street. A friend had told me that a chocolate shop had taken over the old Chez Mamma-San location by Cadey's Alley, so we decided to check it out. J. Chocolatier smells wonderful, even from the outside. The truffles gave me palpitations, but D. spotted the lovely cookies. Another patron, who heard our dilemma over whether to try the hot chocolate or something else, recommended the chocolate chip cookie. He appointed himself a cookie connoisseur, and at 2 for $3, they seemed a great deal. We ordered the chocolate chip and chocolate sparkle (still wonder what made them twinkle). The man behind the bar offered to warm them up. There's plenty of drink options, including milk, several kinds of coffee, and a small selection of teas. I had a very ripe and fruity coffee, which went well with our cookies.

Having grown up Bambi-eyeing people out of their Danish cookies (ah, the days of import substitution), I have impossibly high standards. These are definitively a chocolate lover's cookie - the chocolate sparkle is dark and gooey, a brownie with a cookie texture, earthy but not overwhelmingly rich. The chocolate chips do not compete with the butter, and are just a touch salty. Get there early - patrons kept ordering two at a time, and by the time we left the store they were gone but not forgotten.

J Chocolatier, Georgetown
1039 33rd St NW, Washington, DC 20007
www.jchocolatier.com

Neighborhood Institutions

Georgetown is proudly insular, a town within a city enveloped by a city that concedes only the slightest hint of continuity with the rest of the District through its street names. I would never call my beloved neighborhood trendy - it's charm is opposite: a storied place. And though this has an effect on walking-distance dining choices, 1789, a grand Dame of dining (power or otherwise) has earned its place as the other Georgetown institution. The flipside to t his fame, however, is that my demographic (a couple of years out of school) pigeon-holes these types of establishments as special-occasion only (also known as parental visit-appropriate). The team at 1789, headed by Executive Chef Dan Giusti, is now offering new ways to experience 1789: a Seasonal Tasting Menu (three courses for $40) that will change monthly (October features Apples) and a monthly cooking class ($75 per person) on the last Saturday of each month (starts at 10 AM on Saturday, October 24, reservations required) where participants will learn how to cook said menu alongside Chef Giusti and finish with a three-course lunch paired with wines.

A few weeks ago 1789 invited us for dinner, which included a tasting portion of the October menu - Apple Cider Lacquered Pork Shank. The apple cider gave the shank a light sweetness, while the Yukon gold potato puree, roasted apples and radishes was a great play on textures and flavors, with the bright colors off-setting the pork. I would love to learn how to roast apples without sending them over the edge which is what I always do when I try to use apples in a savory dish.

As for the rest of the meal, I started with a Grey Goose martini. 1789 requires men to wear jackets for dinner, and cell phones must be turned off. These small but important nods to civilized dining had to be celebrated with a timeless cocktail. For my first course I had the Hearts of Palm Salad - something I love to make but that takes on a whole new dimension when the Heart of Palm are fresh. As this is an autumn dish it comes with baby beets (yellow and red, things of beauty), Bronte pistachios (from Sicily, often favored), a touch of horseradish and creme fraiche that both cooled and complemented the spicy greens. For such a long list of ingredients, the salad remained very well-balanced.

I had never tried veal Sweetbreads, and I figured 1789 was the best place to try them. Their veal sweetbreads are crispy, with a consistency similar to foie gras. To cut through the heaviness, the kitchen adds lemon, radish and, importantly, sweetbread jus, which keeps the flavor consistent. Roasted scallions add a touch of smoke. American cuisine does lamb very well, and I need to make myself order other things, in spite of how much I love lamb. This time around I tried the Spiced Caroline Red Snapper - a creative cut of filets that allows the kitchen to keep as much of the fish as possible, without serving it whole. Though the rub needs more spice (I have to disclose a bias in favor of the very spice), the green apple and glazed ginger provided a much needed crunch as well as a distinct aroma. The Jerusalem artichoke and baby fennel also paired well, and again, a long list of ingredients that somehow harmonized on the plate. I paired it with a lovely Riesling that was mildly effervescent without being too minerally.

For dessert (I tried to resist but the dessert menu, it called to me) I tried the Milk Chocolate & Poire William Mousse, which features one of my favorite combination: bartlett pear and chocolate. I find that milk chocolate works best as it does not overpower the delicate pear flavor. What makes this very French combination oh so American is the bittersweet caramel and cocoa espresso crunch.

Check their website for updated seasonal offerings and treat yourself to a night of great food and no cell phone.


1789 Restaurant
1226 36th St NW
Washington, DC 20007
www.1789restaurant.com/main/index.shtml

A different kind of Washington Debate

The Golden Local over at NBC Washington wants to know who the purveyor of the best cupcake in Georgetown is: Baked and Wired or Georgetown Cupcake. I must admit it's a matter that has yet to be settled even amongst ourselves. Throw in your two cents here.


(In the interest of fairness, the cupcakes pictured are from Red Velvet)

All the Tea in Georgetown

I always have to chuckle when people refer to the lovely tea house smack in the middle of Georgetown "a secret gem." In my mind, that is a description more fitting of Leopold's. If Ching Ching Cha appears hidden, this is due to a highly cluttered plain sight. Though it is located in a highly transited stretch of Wisconsin Avenue, it is nestled between 2 very different Georgetown institutions: Filomena's (with its over the top decorations and Clinton patronage) and the Pleasure Place (26 years and counting).

As easy as it may or may not be to find, patrons, even regulars, will always find its calm and austere atmosphere surprising. My favorite feature has always been the skylights, flooding the room with natural light for most of the tea times. Two traditional tea tables (the kind you sit cross-legged at) are at the far edge of the room, while the rest of the space has two and four-tops in laquered rosewood. Metal canisters adorn the walls as well as contain loose tea, which is available for purchase. Ching Ching Cha also strives to educate: the menu has ample descriptions of the teas, their notes and classifications, and the waitress will always present the tea along with some helpful instructions on how to sip it. L. and I both had green tea, and our cups had no handles or infusers. By the second cup (a tea kettle wit its own heat source is on the table so patrons may refresh and infuse as they deem fit) we had gotten the hang of it. Most importantly, Ching Ching Cha does not provide cream, milk, sugar, or sugar substitute. I have always taken the opportunity to experience tea straightforwardly, but I must admit this is not for everyone - Teaism also has an ample selection of teas and does not pontificate over sweeteners.

I chose the Dragon Silver Tips for no better reason than I liked the name. The menu said it was complex, sweet and somewhat floral, making it less astringent than other green teas. The leaves resembled tiny sprigs, and kept their strength for several cups. To start, I had the Chicken Dumplings - L. went for the vegetarian version. The casing was firm but delicate, with a filling of chicken, mushrooms and a hint of cabbage. The 4 dumplings came doused in soy sauce and vinegar, giving them a pleasant smokey overtone.

Since we had a full kettle, an ample appetite and plenty to talk about, L. and I decided to share several sweets. The almond cookies should appease those missing sugar in their tea: they have the crunch of a ginger snap but a more delicate smell, and the absence of any noticeable butter keeps them from overpowering the tea. The coconut tart reminded me of pound cake in texture, but with a lighter feel. The coconut is more noticeable as an essence, and it reminded me of the pineapple buns that dim sum carts often have. The standout was the lotus seed paste wrapped in puff pastry. Reminiscent of roti dough, the lotus paste had a nutty flavor, and the puff pastry had a hint of salt in it that allowed for contrast. Though the menu is not extensive, everything that we had drew our attention back to the tea - which may be the whole point.

Come in, enjoy the lack of wi fi and the absence of the alt-rock soundtrack. Enjoy the taste of tea in actual china. And if you feel that strongly about it, take a bag of Yunnan Gold home and sweeten it to your heart's content.



Ching Ching Cha Tea House
1063 Wisconsin Avenue, NW
Washington DC, 20007
(202)333-8288
www.chingchingcha.com

Ladies who Lunch

Tucked away behind the Four Seasons Hotel, facing one of the less picturesque sections of the C&O Canal, Executive Chef David Varley and his staff keep an extensive herb garden. This fragrant landscaping, scheduled to be moved up to the roof in a few months, serves as a reminder that one of the many pleasures in Georgetown is slowing down to smell the flowers, or in this case, varietals. If you are persuaded to stay, the steps will lead you to the Four Season's renovated patio - complete with bar menu, ample shade, and fire pits.

The charms of the patio could not negate that it was, in fact, high noon in August. Bourbon Steak, Michael Mina's outpost in the District, is at the end of the hotel's lobby, it's dining room flowing into the bar and the aforementioned patio. A group of us were there to sample offerings from the Lunch menu. We started with a house cocktail - peach schnapps, house made peach syrup, bourbon, and a touch of basil. I am not much of a bourbon drinker (or whisky, for that matter) and was pleasantly surprised with its ability to be mixed into a refreshing summer drink other than a mint julep. As we waited for our orders to be taken, a trio of duck fat fries (from the Lounge menu) were brought out, with ketchup, barbeque sauce and horseradish sauce as condiments. A few cast iron skillets dotted the table, holding savory rolls with truffle butter that were piping hot and very fragrant.

I started with the chilled white gazpacho, served table side. This is an almond soup, thicker and creamier than a traditional gazpacho, that couples grapes with cucumbers, offsetting the distinct but delicate tastes of almonds and garlic. Toasted almonds and basil gave it some depth. For my main course, I had seared yellow tuna in a deconstructed version of a Nicoise Salad. The tuna, sliced into two portions over green olive tapenade, dominated the plate (if you prefer a lot of green on your plate, go for the Shrimp salad), and the kitchen's attention to detail was evident right down to the placement of a boiled quayle egg and two fresh anchovies. For wine, we had a Dry Moscatel from Malaga, a citrusy white, and an excellent shiraz.

I am always weary of ordering dessert at steak restaurants, but the beautiful tropical panna cotta (topped with a whirl of avocado) was a thing of beauty. The coconut candy bar, pictured, is the kitchen's take on an Almond Joy (a fresh made Almond Joy, that is), topped with milk chocolate a smoky and salty praline caramel. It would give Central's Kit Kat Bar a run for its money in the "Homage to Candy from our Childhood" Category.

A wonderful meal in a beautiful space.


Bourbon Steak @ The Four Seasons Hotel view menu
2800 Pennsylvania Ave NW
Washington, DC 20007
www.michaelmina.net/mm_bourbonsteak_dc/

Somewhere very "us"

S. came back to DC before embarking on her summer stint at the WHO, and I wanted to treat her to lunch to celebrate the end of her first year in graduate school. I gave her free reign over the location and cuisine - surviving Glennon is no small feat. People that have found their way back to DC often request Ethiopian food. After weeks away, I hanker for Thai. There's something very interesting about food nostalgia, the twin aspects of the meals that you miss, coupled with the places and people that made them special. S. said she wanted to go "somewhere very us."

Before Buzz, my regular post-office watering hole was Leopold's. Tucked away from the bustle on M street on Cady's Alley, their terrace is open for most of the year, and I've always found it a pleasant place to stop by for dessert or a light meal. While the décor is nothing like you would expect from an Austrian coffehouse (for that, go to Neue Galerie in NYC), the bright and airy space is decked out in orange, the signature color of the Leopold Museum in Vienna, has plush flowers for barstools, and it is the only place in DC to get a cup of Julius Meinl coffee on a silver tray next to a glass of water. Over Inaugural weekend, Dr., Viennese to the core, gave it her thumbs up.

On this particular outing, we sat in the terrace enjoying the sunshine and the babble of the courtyard's fountain. We started out with cocktails: a Strawberry Kir for me and a Summer Lemonade for S. The Kir was sparkly and refreshing, with the fresh strawberries giving a bit of acidity to the Chambord, which took the place of the creme de cassis. S. declared hers to be a fun spin on SoCo and lime.

S. ordered the Heurigenplatte, a charcuterie plate that features prosciutto, ham, green olives and some very fresh cornichons. The plate is big enough to share as an appetizer and the presentation is thoughtful and balanced. I had the Tunfischsalat Nicoise, their towering interpretation of the French classic, minus the egg. The presentation puts the roasted tomatoes at the base, giving the impression of a tuna tatare. Upon closer inspection, I found the cooked tuna nestled under the string beans. It is always interesting to see a salad that won't let the greens define it. The herb tapenade dressing plays very well with the smokey taste of the roasted tomato.

The crown jewel of Leopold's is, of course, the pastry case. S. and I went to inspect the contents - macarons, petit fours, tartes, chocolate and hazelnut in every which way - we set aside old favorites (including the Papillote) for the Malaga, a raspberry mouse topped with very light vanilla cake, enrobed in white chocolate. Fresh and tart, it is s a perfect summer dessert. It is hard to go wrong with that pastry case (which can look a bit bare on Sunday nights) and my only disappointment in 4 years has been their Sachertorte, which I found dry and too dense. We raised our double espressos to the friends that used to come with us to Cady's Alley, gone but never forgotten: the defining taste of food nostalgia is always bittersweet.

Leopold's Kafe view menu
3318 M St NW
Washington, DC 20007
(202) 965-6005
www.kafeleopolds.com

Sweetgreen Makes Eating Your Veggies Fun

Sweetgreen is a concept that you will enjoy as much as their light and healthy salads and frozen yogurt. I visited their new Dupont Circle space several times this month and their Georgetown location, which opened earlier, once. The Georgetown location is a much smaller, busy, takeout joint for hungry tourists and Georgetown students on the go, and the Bethesda restaurant just opened today, with high ceilings, seating for 40 and an outdoors patio area.

Sweetgreen tosses up seven $9 signature and four $8 traditional salads, along with serving a tart and slightly sweet frozen yogurt with live cultures and toppings ranging from fresh fruit to candied walnuts. If you prefer, you can create your own salad and add a dressing and some of the many available veggies, crunchy bits, meats and cheeses of choice. Drink selections are $2 Honest Tea and Honest Ade organic beverages, along with similarly priced still and sparkling waters.

Owners Nicolas Jammet, Nathaniel Ru, and Jonathan Neman take environmental sustainability seriously. It is also evident, however, that they had fun and took great care in testing the concept for this restaurant until they had created a cohesive and successful business model. All Sweetgreen restaurants are Green Certified by the Green Restaurant Association and powered by 100 percent wind energy from Clean Currents. At Dupont Circle, the laidback, hip atmosphere is also airy, enhanced by high ceilings and a beautifully cool, abstract wallpaper design reminiscent of their ribbed salad greens. Reclaimed hickory wood lines the walls, utensils are made of biodegradable corn, and the typical trash bins have been recreated as an old-fashioned farm compost/recycling area. Even the napkin dispensers feature “green” facts about the restaurant. (My favorite is “hey Lebowski—the tables and seats are made from reclaimed pre-1980s bowling alleys!”) Wall niches contain reusable canteens and salad containers available for purchase. Takeaway menus are printed on biodegradable recycled paper and contain California wildflower seeds, so you can plant them in your window box or back yard.

This cheerful dining fills you completely, gradually and almost imperceptibly, so it is particularly well-suited for steaming summers in DC. The cool salads are generous and accompanied by a long slice of warm baguette. I liked every one I tried, but perhaps my favorite was the $9 Curry Gold signature salad, featuring chopped romaine, curried chicken salad, raisins, almonds, celery and coconut. The pineapple curry dressing, made with nonfat yogurt, honey, and white wine vinegar, among other ingredients, was delicate and delicious. Another one I will order again is the $9 Bondi, with mesclun and baby arugula, grilled chicken, avocado, sweet corn, hearts of palm, and wasabi peas sprinkled with white balsamic vinaigrette. At first I wondered whether the wasabi peas’ heat would overwhelm other ingredients, but they blended in perfectly and added a complementary sweet-hot crunch.

Next I tried the $9 Santorini, with chopped romaine, small roasted shrimp, feta cheese, grapes, fresh mint, chick peas and a splash of lemon juice topped with a cucumber basil yogurt dressing. Again I was pleased with the way the small fresh shrimp fit perfectly into the salad rather than overpowering it. My friend, J., declared the $8 Chinese Chicken salad, an “old school favorite,” absolutely delectable, and enthusiastically said that she would be happy to return the next day to devour it again. I liked the Caprese “old school favorite,” but ended up preferring the more multi-textured salads the owners have dreamed up on their own.

One of Sweetgreen’s many strengths is the salads’ consistent textural balance. This culinary high-wire act is not necessarily easy to achieve, but the veggies, crunchy ingredients, cheeses, meats, fruits, and greens combine in sometimes unexpected but always harmonious ways. Ingredients chopped this small are also easy to digest for busy people on the run.

The slightly sweet frozen yogurt with live cultures made my tongue tingle, having a tart, plain taste reminiscent of the yogurt I make myself. I tried it two times, once covered with candied walnuts, mango, and raspberries; and another with dried apricots. It was yummy with all toppings. Do not expect your typical super-sweet frozen yogurt, however.

When dining at the Dupont location, I simply took pleasure in sitting there, swaying slightly to the beat of the alternative tunes and classics that were playing, relaxing within the restaurant’s arboreal design and gazing out the large bay window at Connecticut Avenue passersby and the Starbucks across the street. (Check out sweetgreen’s blog to find out more about the music they play.) I actually felt sorry for Starbucks’ lunch customers. They would have gotten a tastier, fresher meal with better value sitting with me.

So I recommend this new entrée on the scene very highly. With its eye-and tongue-pleasing array of fresh, high-quality ingredients, it is the best “salad bar” I have frequented in a very long time. Sweetgreen fills a much-needed gap in the DC quick-casual dining arena, and I hope it does as well as it deserves.

Sweetgreen in Georgetown view menu
3333 M Street NW
Washington, DC 20007
(202) 337-9338

Sweetgreen in Dupont Circle
1512 Connecticut Ave, NW
Washington, DC 200036
(202) 337-9338

Sweetgreen in Bethesda
4831 Bethesda Ave
Bethesda, MD 20814
(301) 654-7336
http://www.sweetgreen.com/

Camacho's Wedding Feast

Tapas seem to be everywhere these days, and rightly so. Small servings meant to accompany beer of wine, these appetizers can make a meal in and of themselves and are a great way to explore tastes, textures and preparations without committing to a single entrée. Be it a simple tapa of cheese on bread or one featuring vegetables and grilled meats, the secret to great tapas -traditional or modern, purely Spanish or fusion- lies in the ingredients used. This commitment to traditional quality ingredients, even in the face of a skyrocketing Euro, truly sets certain restaurants apart. Judging by their consistently good tapas and hordes of enthusiastic patrons, (even during the middle of the week), Bodega is leading the pack in traditional offerings.

Bodega opened a few months ago on M street, taking over the space formerly occupied by Manhattan Grill. Completely redone in blacks and reds with just a hint of the Arabic influence of Southern Spain, you'll feel as if you walked into Taberna del Alabardero's younger, hipper sibling (though the skulls are a bit too Merc Bar for my taste). Bodega has a full-service bar and a terrace in the back, and the minimal lighting is reminiscent of both a lounge and the wine cellars that give it its name.

The menu is ordered into tablas (platters, mostly cheese and cold cuts, including Serrano Ham), cold tapas, hot tapas, soups, salads, paellas, and for those with less culinary commitment issues, entrées. I have stayed squarely in the tapas section during my initial visits but have given more than sweeping glances at tables that were enjoying paella. Aside from wines by the bottle and the glass, Bodega has red and white sangria (made with Cava, Spanish sparkling white wine). Since tapas are first and foremost bar food, it's a good idea to pair them with wine or beer.

As a rule of thumb, I order 5 or 6 tapas for 2 people, and mix cold and hot tapas. This allows the kitchen to prepare your hot tapas while the cold ones satiate your hunger. The tables at Bodega are small, and the server kept bringing our plates two at a time (at one point we did have to colonize the next table over, as we did not want to relinquish the extra bread). It is also a good idea to leave room for dessert.

My favorite cold tapas are the Boquerones, (cured white anchovies in olive oil and lemon that melt in your mouth); Pan con Tomate y Queso Manchego (a Catalunean staple consisting of bread with a touch of tomato and a slice of Manchego, an aged semi-firm sheep's milk cheese); and the house olives, a blend of colossal, manzanilla and black olives. For hot tapas, I stick to classics: Croquetas de Pollo (golden chicken croquettes filled with chicken and white sauce); Spanish Tortilla (an egg and potato omelet); Calamares Fritos (fried Calamari with Alioli, a garlic and oil sauce); and the Butifarra Catalana (a Catalonian Sausage with Sautees Kidney Beans). The latter almost provoked an incident when Tapas etiquette was breached and T. scooped all the remaining beans. As with everything else in life, beware whom you share your plates with, or at least make sure you're more skilled in fork to fork combat. I've had two outstanding desserts at Bodega: the Crema Catalana (a Catalunean custard, similar but not identical to creme bruleé) and the Bodega ice cream. A truly adult ice cream sundae, where vanilla ice cream is topped by mission figs, port and sherry.

If you get there without your party, avoid the hostess - it should be the food, not the subtle rudeness, that transports you to Iberian Peninsula - and sit yourself at the bar while you wait, the bartender will take care of you.

Bodega Spanish Tapas & Lounge
3116 M St. NW, Washington, DC, 20007
(202) 333-4733
www.bodegadc.com

Things to Eat on an Idle Monday

It's easy to walk right past Cafe Divan while running errands in Georgetown. Located across the street from Safeway, it is usually packed at dinner time and mostly empty for lunch. Too far away from M street to cater to the lunch crowd (their carry out counter delivers ) and with decor showcasing the long, backless benches that give the cafe its name, the place does not scream adventurous or ethnic. Regardless, Cafe Divan is a lovely space with courteous staff, cooks who know their way around the grill, a well-intentioned but mostly lackluster wine list, and very good Turkish coffee.

The Mezze list reads like anything at other Mediterranean restaurant - dolma, hummus, tabbouleh and adds kofte (a lentil dish) and borek (feta cheese with parsley covered in homemade pastry and deep fried). Though a lot of them are fried, they do not feel overwhelmingly oily.

For a rare lunch visit yesterday, I had a Sucuk Pide - stuffed bread baked in a wood-burning oven filled with Turkish sausage, tomatoes, black olives and kasshar cheese. It was a lot of bread, but I couldn't stop eating it. I've had better dishes at Cafe Divan - I love lamb, and their grill consistently puts out marvelous lamb entrees, but I had just come back from eating my way through Manhattan and wanted something simpler. The Rotisserie Lamb they serve on Thursdays is well worth the hike up Wisconsin Avenue. T had the Yogurtlu Kofte, which pretty much sums up the components of the menu: lamb, tomato, yogurt, and parsley. The meat for the skewers is ground, salted, spiced and grilled, served over fresh tomato sauce and yogurt. I am not sure how much bread the actual recipe requires, but this had some crouton-sized pita cut outs that soaked enough of the sauce to make it a nice counterpoint to the lamb's texture.

We skipped dessert to go downhill to Patisserie Poupon only to find it closed on Mondays. Luckily Dolcezza is down the street and yesterday's early thaw made it just warm enough for ice cream - at least for those of us hankering for dessert. Dolcezza is open year-round and also offers churros and alfajores, a traditional Argentinean dessert consisting of two merengue cookies encasing dulce de leche. If you cannot have ice cream during winter, they also have a good selection of teas and coffee. You may try as many flavors as you like before taking the agonizing decision of choosing just two (or three or four if you want the bigger sizes). The large influx of Italian immigrants to Argentina have given the country the best ice cream tradition in all of South America. Dolcezza is a proud steward of that tradition - my dark chocolate and tangerine combination yesterday had to be the best gelato I've ever had. Dulce de Leche consistently sells out and the sorbets are seasonal. As for the price, it will set you back slightly more than Haagen Dazs or Ben and Jerry's, with the additional benefit of having to trek uphill to get it.


Cafe Divan
1834 Wisconsin Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20007
(202)338-1747
www.cafedivan.com

Dolcezza Argentine Gelato
1560 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20007
(202)333-4646

Hooked

The team behind Hook in Georgetown is committed to serving eco-friendly food. To the patron, this translates into a menu that changes daily to reflect whatever sustainable fish are in season and available and that incorporates locally grown produce as well as humane meat and dairy products. The philosophy also inspires the décor: stark white walls festooned with blow-up pictures of your entrees before they were seafood. It looks and feels like an aquarium, with the photographs themselves looking a bit worse for wear after a year.

I have had lunch at Hook twice for Restaurant Week and have enjoyed both meals. Sustainable fishing has many merits, but from the purely self-serving angle, it gives you the opportunity to eat fish not commonly found in restaurants (last August I had barracuda for an entrée). There were three of us yesterday, so we had the opportunity to taste about half of the Restaurant Week Menu for the day.

The first course consisted of a Tuna Crudo (Raw Tuna prepared three ways, this time featuring a distinct citrus note as well as some nuts), Pumpkin and Potato Soup with a Sea Urchin foam (the soup itself was wonderful but the foam seemed to be there for no other reason than to introduce a seafood element into it) and Grilled Calamari with Potato Salad and fresh Pesto. The calamari was grilled over charcoal and had a wonderful smoky taste; pairing it with potato salad (made with a mustard base) had never occurred to me but I look forward to replicating it.

For second course we ordered the Bluefish, Carbonara Pasta with Crab, and Rockfish. I’ve tasted the Bluefish during my past visit and it remains a solid dish, served French-style over a bed of pureed potatoes. The Carbonara was filling but not as heavy as we expected, and topping it with citrusy-onion rings was a great way to balance out the bacon. The Rockfish – as solid as a tuna steak – was served with a small fried cake that tasted (but was not) barley, reminiscent of falafel.

We could have done without desserts but this is, after all, Restaurant Week. We ordered the Poached Pear (with red wine and a sweet creamy cheese), a lovely Panna Cotta (with just the right amount of citrus and dusted with espresso) and something called Tic-Tac-Toe, which is a pastry chef’s take on home made Oreos and a shortbread cookie. Most people (myself included) probably ordered this out of sheer curiosity and it is always nice to see the kitchen not take itself too seriously.

Hook Restaurant
3241 M Street, NW
Washington DC
www.hookdc.com

Our Daily Bread

The Belgian chain recently opened its DC outpost on M street in Georgetown, across the street from the Four Seasons Hotel, taking over the space of the long-suffering Au Pied Bistro. There are plenty of items on the menu, including omelets made with real butter, muffins and yogurt parfaits for breakfast and salads, quiche and soups for lunch and dinner, with cakes and pastries for after (or instead of). This is what La Madeleine wishes it could be. There are two floors that have the famous communal tables with waiter service, as well as a counter with polite and courteous staff that can tell the baked goods apart, and even make some recommendations. The restaurant also features a garden court which makes it pretty perfect for breakfast in this weather.

I'd advise newcomers to order the Bakers' Basket, which has slices of the signature breads, both sweet and savory. Every table has spreads, pralines and jams. To make it a more complete breakfast, order a side of prosciutto or smoked salmon - easily split between two people. Once you figure out your favorite bread (the one featuring sunflower seeds and an oatmeal crust is mine), branch out to the other menu items. An interesting (albeit a bit too precious) detail is that coffee is served in saucers. Spreads can be bought in the pantry section of the restaurant.

I was there this morning for a pit stop before my commute and conducted my croissant test - it passed muster with flying colors (with high marks for crust, flakiness, smell and color) for pennies more than La Madeleine. A great addition to M street.

Le Pain Quotidien - Bakery and Communal Table

2815 M Street, NW Washington DC 20007
http://www.lepainquotidien.com/

Restaurant Week Dinner at Mie N Yu

Ahh, another tasty and indulgent meal this week, thanks to Restaurant Week. Last night, friends and I went to Mie N Yu in Georgetown for dinner. The restaurant invites you to indulge your senses with the sights and sounds of “A Silk Road Celebration," offering contemporary American cuisine with flavors from Asia, the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean. You walk into the space through textured off-white curtains, and upon entering you really do feel transported to a more exotic locale than M Street. The bar offers great and interesting cocktails, albeit for a steep price, and usually is fairly full. Last night it was at capacity but actually imbued a level of energy which lent itself to pre-dinner drinks and to anticipating the tasty treats yet to come. After a couple of rounds of drinks, we were seated in the restaurant's upstairs area, which probably usually is reserved only for private events. After ordering a glass of Terrazas Malbec from the restaurant's fabulous yet expensive wine list, we studied the menu and placed our order. I started with the Grilled Romaine Caesar Salad. The salad was definitely not grilled, but the lettuce was super fresh and I enjoyed the nice amount of Parmesan cheese and the Miso Caesar dressing which was peppery, creamy and delicious. Amy ordered the Boston Bibb Salad, which came with walnuts, oranges, grapes and blue cheese, and looked pretty, but the portion was quite small. Others opted for the Barbecue Lamb Egg Rolls, which came with kimchee (a Korean pickled vegetable mix), and Smoked Salmon Bruschetta, both of which were tasty. For my entree I ordered Shanghai Shrimp with Snow Peas and Rice Noodles. The shrimp were delicious and cooked perfectly, but the sauce was a bit sweet and tangy for my taste. I don't really eat carbs (just think they are filler and don't offer much taste) and so for the most part ate the shrimp and picked out the snow peas, carrots and red peppers slices which were cut into nice, thin strips. Amy ordered the Braised Short Ribs, which were delicious. Think melt-in-your-mouth pot roast cooked all day with a sauce which had a fabulous essence thanks to the slow-roasted meat. Others went for the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes, which actually consisted mostly of crab meat, instead of filler and such as often can be the case, and were fabulously flavored with a bit of mustard, mayo and herbs. The Miso Marinated Black Cod came with a sauce made primarily of coconut milk and was well-seasoned and was pretty to the eye, but the portion was tiny. I don't really eat dessert, so I gave my Tiramisu to the table to enjoy, but I did have a bite and the crust was deliciously firm and tasted of pure bittersweet chocolate, and the espresso flavor was strong but not overpowering. Amy and a couple others ordered the chocolate cake for a $5 upcharge, and it was amazing. It was presented with a slice most of the way through the circular creation which revealed a molten center, and the cake was topped with a rich fudge sauce. I had a tiny bite and it was delicious. All in all a very good meal, albeit a bit expensive thanks to the pricey wine list.

Mie N Yu

3125 M Street in NW DC
http://www.mienyu.com/