Downtown Surprises

A few days before Thanksgiving, Lindsey and I were invited to check out BlackFinn, which bills itself as an American Saloon and opened its DC outpost a few months ago. Though I am normally weary of chains, their 16th street location was very convenient, and I am always on the lookout for good happy hour spots.

BlackFinn holds true to Saloon traditions - it serves drinks over a counter, and is laid out as a series of rooms. Most of the space is dedicated to the dining room, with booths, flat-screen TVs, and smaller wooden tables. The flair is kept at minimum, and though the bar was packed and there was a large holiday gathering in the back room, we could engage each other in conversation without having to shout (have you ever tried doing that at Old Ebbitt?). The menu is also American fare, with some unexpected twists.

We started our meal with the Seared Ahi Tuna and the Pork Shanks. The Tuna was the first surprise of the evening: sushi grade fish with a garlic and black pepper crust. The cut was thicker than sashimi style, but the it melted in your mouth, with a seaweed salad to contrast in both color and texture. We also tried the Pork Shanks, tender and juicy, which Lindsey proclaimed to be a great midpoint between mini Turkey legs and big chicken wings, tastier than either and as easy to maneuver and eat. I'd be surprised if more restaurants don't start adding them to their menus.

For our second courses we had Black Finn's signature dish - Prime Rib of Beef. We had a 10 oz (boneless), and could definitively appreciate the work behind the rock salt and roasted garlic taste: a full day marinade, topped with grated horseradish. The meat is probably kept away from a direct flame, so what you get is the salt, not the smoke. This may also be why the dish is colder than one would normally expect. Meat doesn't have to sizzle, and it is certainly an enjoyable preparation, with its side of jus and mashed potatoes. We also tried the night's special, which featured a lump crabcake. The kitchen has been tinkering with its crabcake recipe and we both hope they stick to this one. The large crabcake came out sitting on a bed of leeks and mashed potatoes (and perhaps celeriac), a wonderful and balanced combination of butter, salt, and the slight crunch of the perfectly-cooked leeks. I eat crabcakes every chance I get and this has to be amongst the best in the city - no easy feat for a new comer. Blackfinn has several wines by the glass. I had a glass of California Claret, a fruity and light red wine that paired well with both entrees.

As a third couset, we had their two best-selling desserts: a hot brownie Sundae and the Apple Crisp. The Sundae is pretty straightforward: diagonal cuts of house-made brownies, served warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream in the center. It is homey and non-fuzzy, but pales in comparison to the Apple crisp (granted, maybe we were just in the mood for Apples, this being autumn). This dessert feels and tastes seasonal, with large apple wedges and that elusive crunchy crust.

Pleasant surprises, just around the corner from the White House. We'll have to go back for the ice cream sliders. And more crabcakes.


BlackFinn American Saloon
1620 I Street NW
Washington, D.C. 20006
202.429.4350
www.blackfinndc.com

Neighborhood Institutions

Georgetown is proudly insular, a town within a city enveloped by a city that concedes only the slightest hint of continuity with the rest of the District through its street names. I would never call my beloved neighborhood trendy - it's charm is opposite: a storied place. And though this has an effect on walking-distance dining choices, 1789, a grand Dame of dining (power or otherwise) has earned its place as the other Georgetown institution. The flipside to t his fame, however, is that my demographic (a couple of years out of school) pigeon-holes these types of establishments as special-occasion only (also known as parental visit-appropriate). The team at 1789, headed by Executive Chef Dan Giusti, is now offering new ways to experience 1789: a Seasonal Tasting Menu (three courses for $40) that will change monthly (October features Apples) and a monthly cooking class ($75 per person) on the last Saturday of each month (starts at 10 AM on Saturday, October 24, reservations required) where participants will learn how to cook said menu alongside Chef Giusti and finish with a three-course lunch paired with wines.

A few weeks ago 1789 invited us for dinner, which included a tasting portion of the October menu - Apple Cider Lacquered Pork Shank. The apple cider gave the shank a light sweetness, while the Yukon gold potato puree, roasted apples and radishes was a great play on textures and flavors, with the bright colors off-setting the pork. I would love to learn how to roast apples without sending them over the edge which is what I always do when I try to use apples in a savory dish.

As for the rest of the meal, I started with a Grey Goose martini. 1789 requires men to wear jackets for dinner, and cell phones must be turned off. These small but important nods to civilized dining had to be celebrated with a timeless cocktail. For my first course I had the Hearts of Palm Salad - something I love to make but that takes on a whole new dimension when the Heart of Palm are fresh. As this is an autumn dish it comes with baby beets (yellow and red, things of beauty), Bronte pistachios (from Sicily, often favored), a touch of horseradish and creme fraiche that both cooled and complemented the spicy greens. For such a long list of ingredients, the salad remained very well-balanced.

I had never tried veal Sweetbreads, and I figured 1789 was the best place to try them. Their veal sweetbreads are crispy, with a consistency similar to foie gras. To cut through the heaviness, the kitchen adds lemon, radish and, importantly, sweetbread jus, which keeps the flavor consistent. Roasted scallions add a touch of smoke. American cuisine does lamb very well, and I need to make myself order other things, in spite of how much I love lamb. This time around I tried the Spiced Caroline Red Snapper - a creative cut of filets that allows the kitchen to keep as much of the fish as possible, without serving it whole. Though the rub needs more spice (I have to disclose a bias in favor of the very spice), the green apple and glazed ginger provided a much needed crunch as well as a distinct aroma. The Jerusalem artichoke and baby fennel also paired well, and again, a long list of ingredients that somehow harmonized on the plate. I paired it with a lovely Riesling that was mildly effervescent without being too minerally.

For dessert (I tried to resist but the dessert menu, it called to me) I tried the Milk Chocolate & Poire William Mousse, which features one of my favorite combination: bartlett pear and chocolate. I find that milk chocolate works best as it does not overpower the delicate pear flavor. What makes this very French combination oh so American is the bittersweet caramel and cocoa espresso crunch.

Check their website for updated seasonal offerings and treat yourself to a night of great food and no cell phone.


1789 Restaurant
1226 36th St NW
Washington, DC 20007
www.1789restaurant.com/main/index.shtml

Bessie Knows Best

The Conventional Wisdom for those of us that frequent Old Town Alexandria is that, particularly on King Street, the further away from the water the better the restaurant. While this adage may ring true for less-than stellar destinations right on the river that mostly rely on tourist foot traffic, exceptions must be made: La Bergerie on Lee Street, and Jackson 20, half a block away from Market Square.

I've often found a perch at the Bar at Jackson 20 to enjoy the view and the cocktails, Located on the edge of a dark wood dinning room with a picture window on one side and an open plan kitchen on the other, it is a good place to unwind, watch some random sports on an available but never intrusive TV set, and chat with some of Old Town's friendliest bar tenders. Jackson 20 is a restaurant with a sense of humor - the centerpiece of the dining room is Bessie, an often-costumed pig. To find a bust of Mr. Jackson, he of 20 dollar bill fame, you will have to head for the back door. The courtyard, an ample space for beautiful nights away from the bustle of King Street, also hosts the storied Doggie Happy Hour, a tradition that Kimpton kept when they took over the property a few years ago.

On this particular outing I got to sit with a group of writers at the Chef's table, a large marble slab opposite the bar. We started with cocktails. While my favorite is the Honeysuckle (Absolut Ruby Red, grapefruit juice, honey syrup and muddled ginger), this time around I decided to try the Presidential Punch, concocted for Obama's inauguration - a delightful and unlikely combination of Cachaça, peach Schnapps, sparkling cider, house-made raspberry syrup, accompanied with fresh apples, peaches, and pineapple. The fruit at the bottom truly makes it a punch, and it puts one's stomach in good stead for the Southern-inspired food to come.

For an appetizer, I ordered the Scallop and Shrimp Brochette, a skewer wrapped in bacon with a side of grits and greens. I was looking forward to the dish, as I love scallops and what Chef Denis Marron does with them. While the grits were creamy and the greens peppery and fresh, the bacon overwhelmed the proteins. The kitchen also sent us shrimp fritters (fried just enough to keep them doughy and hot) and ham sliders, the perfect size for a bar bite - Country ham with fresh-made slaw on a biscuit with a great salty taste, but a bit dry.

In between courses I switched to a glass of Oregon Pinot Noir - Jackson 20 has an extensive selection of wines by the glass, as well as some funky wines for 20 dollars a bottle.
As a main dish, I decided to go for the full rack of ribs, after securing promises from around the table that I would get some help with them. At 20 dollars (10 for half), the dish is one of the best dinner deals in Old Town - a portion big enough to share (and a plate that had to be carried out by the Chef, insert Flinstones jokes here.) The pork ribs were cooked just right - the meat came right off as I went through the motions of using a fork, extra sauce was at hand: the smell was complex without being overly pungent, with a top note of all spice and hints of chocolate, topped with a dusting of chives. The smashed potatoes were well-seasoned, and I would have finished them were it not for the Virginia Cheddar Macaroni & Cheese Casserole that we ordered for the table - the bacon and ham hock gave it an added texture and smoke without making it too salty, and the top was crusty in all the right ways.

Once I secured a box for my ribs (even with all that help), I joined in the partaking of a cross-selection of desserts. My favorite was the Pecan-Chocolate Pie, a reminder that NoVa is, in fact, Virginia. A tall chocolate pie, it has the consistency of a very dense mousse (or a very fluffy pudding), a buttery crust, and a good quantity of pecans, topped with a dollop of Chantilly Cream. A close second was the Blueberry Cobbler with buttermilk ice cream, a well-rounded combination of hot/cold/tart/sweet. As opposed to many cobblers, the starch could have stood up on its own in terms of taste and texture. The Lime Meringue Tart and the Banana Pudding, both beautifully presented, would make many grandmothers proud.

Pay your respects to Bessie next time you're in Old Town. She'll even be a a good sport about the barbeque sauce-stained napkin you'll leave behind.

Jackson 20 @ Hotel Monaco, Old Town
480 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
www.jackson20.com

I Spy

No sooner had I submitted my electronic tax return to the IRS did this show up in the DCGastronome inbox. Have to hand it to Zola for the most creative promotion I've seen all year: On Tax Day, Patrons can enjoy a meal and get tax filing assistance, while sipping a specialty cocktail, the IRS Raspberry (ourbon, fresh lime and Steaz Raspberry and Green Tea soda) as well as several value-priced wines.

On April 15th, Zola will have fixed priced meal served exclusively at the bar, including an appetizer, entrée and dessert priced at $20.15 for lunch and $35.15 for dinner. Zola is also providing IRS tax forms, calculators, envelopes and #2 pencils. In fact the restaurant will even mail guests’ tax forms, paying for the postage, for those who complete their forms at Zola’s bar by 11 p.m.

Beats waiting in line at the post office!

Zola view menu
800 F St NW
Washington, DC 20004
www.zoladc.com

Not seeking new landscapes but having new eyes

S. came down from Boston for Inauguration, so we decided to celebrate her birthday at The Grille in Old Town.

Morrison House looks like a private residence, and its formal dinning room is lovely and very old-school, the way one might remember those rooms one was normally not allowed to go into as a child. But if you go straight down the hall, following the happy chatter and the live music (thus far I've heard a piano player, acoustic guitarists and even a regular or two taking to the stage) you will find an upbeat and cozy bar area, clad in red leather and wooden floors. You will also see Chef Denis Marron checking in on his patrons and happily discussing his culinary creations. The ambiance there is relaxed and jovial, even though you are in the same restaurant and dining on the same menu. The Grille is less grand dame and more fun cousin - and a place that must be visited on whim and occasion alike.

S. and I started with hot cider cocktails that were well balanced - sweet, but with a kick. We both went for the Chef's tasting menus (3, 4 or 6 courses for 45, 65 or 75 USD) and I was happily surprised by some classics as well as new creations. We were busy catching up and marveling at the fact that the day had come when we were not having graduate student fare, so I didn't prepare myself for the Apple-Parsnip Bisque, a heavy soup poured table-side over duck confit, apple chips and cinnamon espuma. Though the description on the menu perfectly indicated the fact that this would be a sweet soup, my first spoonful was bewildering - the only thing I can compare the overall note to is fresh-baked cinnamon bread. Stirring all the ingredients, especially the salt in the duck confit made all the flavors pair together for a very pleasant effect. As we waited four our entrees, our server told us that the chef would be sending out another course. A few days prior I had been very enthusiastic about the new scallop appetizer at Domaso and, not one to shy from chefs wanting to one-up each other for me, we tried a wonderful flight of scallops - a crudo, a cold smoked scallop with a lemon gelee, a seared scallop with bacon espuma and coquilles st. jaques, a baked preparation. Not only is the dish a wonderful demonstration of new techniques (my favorite, the cold smoke, was presented still encased in a smoke-filled shot glass) but a great way to show the versatility of a great ingredient at its peak. I've been torn over both dishes for a week and must pronounce The Grille the winner for its variety and its playful but sophisticated approach to getting diners to venture out of the traditional seared scallop.

For our main courses, S. had the veal, a braised veal breast presented over glazed root vegetables with black truffle jus and crispy sweetbreads. The compact presentation makes the most of the tender meat and the vegetables give it an interesting play on textures. I had the monkfish, braised in red wine with brussel sprouts and brown butter spaetzle. The mokfish tail was fantastic - a firm meat, much like lobster but less fragrant. The brussel sprouts had just the right crunch in them. The spaetzle, a staple of Austrian cooking, was a bit dry but its flavor complimented the fish.

Intrepid diners that we are (or making up for the days when we would save up and go to Finale's in lieu of actually eating dinner) S. and I had desserts. S. got the Coconut, which had coconut four ways: Coconut Cream Pie, Coconut Macaroon,
Pina Colada Foam, Saffron & Coconut Marshmallow. Learning from my previous mistakes, S. tackled the foam first and went on to enjoy every bit of tropic that the ingredient afforded her. I had a Red Velvet cake that has ruined all red velvet cakes for me (yes, even the Magnolia Bakery cupcakes in New York). The cake is heavy but not dense, toped with a chocolate ganache and the traditional cheese icing between layers. The batter has beets in it, further amplifying the refreshing taste of the beet gelato. The plate also had a dusting of beet powder, which I had never tasted. It's texture paired well with the overall smoothness of the ganache and the gelato, giving it an extra dimension: grit.

A wonderful meal spent in great company in a rediscovered space - what better way to kick off Inaugural weekend?

The Grille at Morrison House Hotel
116 South Alfred Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(703)838.8000
www.morrisonhouse.com

Happenings

What is it about Summer Restaurant Week that makes it so different from its winter counterpart? Is it the fact that the city is mostly empty as summer ebbs? Fresher ingredients? People in less of a hurry to warm up? I pondered these and other questions as I made my way up King Street (on the first truly hot day after a stint of glorious weather) to have dinner at Vermilion. I'd heard good things about it, and I go to Buzz, part of the same restaurant group, at least once a week.

As a space, Vermilion takes advantage of its location, a few blocks up from the King Street metro station. The converted house (all red hues, by decor and design) has a beautiful bar that looks like an updated saloon, and the upstairs has a wine wall that has probably tempted more than one patron. Window seating is sparse but readily available. If this bar were smoke-free, I'd make it a staple for Happy Hour.

The Restaurant Week menu also included wine specials. Though I often crave white wine during the summer, I find red to be a better choice for a heavy meal. We ordered a bottle red Côtes du Rhône, probably a Syrah/Granache mix (I have noticed that the French are now labeling by grape and not by terroir, but this was one of the old time bottles). The wine was lovely - bright, but with a bite.

As a first course, I had the chilled roasted pepper soup, which came in a very dramatic bowl that made the best use of the fiery orange on white contrast. The soup was garnished with pine nuts and a dollop of cream, and the texture was grainy - a way to preserve the consistency of the peppers. T. had the Eastern shore scallops - a dish I love but that I've had to stop ordering, as I always wound up eating the same thing. They looked perfectly cooked and considering the speed at which they were eaten, were probably quite good. I had read great things about the kitchen's handmade pasta, but we both chose the bistro fillet. Potatoes would have put this steak on another seasonal menu, so the garnish was blue cheese (maytag, as a crisp) and enough cherry tomatoes (red and yellow) to be a salad on its own, cut into halves and sprinkled with salt.

After an ill-advised staring contest, we took on dessert. The pasty chef had a chance to show off, showcasing the ingredients in two and three ways. The Peppermint Pattie featured two types of chocolate (as a cake and as a liquid) and three types of mint (sprig, cream, and the best mint ice cream I've ever had). The goat's milk cheesecake, a fluffy concoction hovering over strawberries mixed with wine, was a refreshing bite.

I look forward to trying their bar menu, smoke and all.

Vermilion Restaurant
1120 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
703 684 9669
www.vermilionrestaurant.com

Boys Don't Cry

The best part about going to Restaurant Week with E. is that I know I will try twice as many dishes - ever since Y. got us started a few years ago, demanding that we approach this celebration of eating out with the discipline of samurais, we have an unspoken rule of exchanging plates midway. I've been sorry to part with my dish on several occasions, but this way I don't have to wonder what I am missing. E. is also getting a degree in Decorative Arts, so my random musings on the color of walls or the choice of lightning are vastly improved by her keen eye and eloquence.

After a slight confusion with our tables - we wound up waiting for each other for over 25 minutes, on opposite sides of the partition wall - we settled down for a lovely meal (to make up for the wait, our waitress got us extra onion and dill rolls - not to be missed, even if you are in for a three course lunch).For appetizers we ordered Tuna Sliders (spicy tuna tartare on mini rolls with a cucumber salad) and a salad called "The Wedge," a crafty presentation of iceberg hearts, smoked bacon, tomato confitures and buttermilk blue aioli. The sliders looked delightful, arranged as happy mushrooms, and the salad had a great balance of textures. Aioli is seldom prepared the way it ought to be - with raw egg - due to health regulations, but the creaminess of the buttermilk was a great contrast to the acidity of the pepper vinaigrette. For main courses, we had the beef shortribs and the braised pork. Both dishes were pulled - no bones on the plate, which gave them the appearance of a very high-end barbecue (the pork even came with coleslaw). The shortribs were very well cooked and perfectly seasoned, over a bed of frites. The polenta cake that came with the pork was fluffy, even with the onslaught of braising jus and slaw dressing. The pickle chips were mostly an afterthought - they added nothing to the dish and though they looked pretty, the taste was too briny to be harmoniously incorporated into the dish.

When dessert came (a souffle cake with solidified creme anglaise for me and beignets for E.) we both came to the same realization - the navy blue/brown/white décor, menu and even the Spartan presentation of the desserts gave off a decisively "Gentlemen Who Lunch" vibe, which makes perfect sense in a restaurant in the middle of so many offices. Though PS 7's is not trying to be the Caucus Room or The Palm, you would hardly expect a gaggle of women to come in through the door on any given day. Luckily, the balanced menu, fresh ingredients and cordial service makes this a great place to visit, even for a powerless-lunch.

For those of you who want to pace yourselves with Restaurant Week - rejoice. PS 7's has extended it for the entire month of August. Details here.

PS 7's Restaurant
777 I Street, NW
Washington, DC 20001
www.ps7restaurant.com