Umbria in Boston

After a busy weekend which included attending the Gold Cup (my first time - so fun!), lots of time enjoying the sunshine on Sunday and a birthday/bbq get together, I headed out to Boston on Monday morning for a quick work trip. I had an early evening event in the Boston Harbor area, which has changed dramatically in the past few years and now is really blossoming with interesting restaurants, shops and streetlife, not to mention beautiful views of the harbor. I read about Umbria on Franklin Street not too far from the reception I attended, so decided to pop by and take a peek. The space houses five floors and the ambiance generally is upbeat for sure yet also upscale too. There are fireplaces, exposed brick walls and light fixtures beaming gold on several levels, and the more "loungey" areas feature more modern lighting and industrial lines and fixtures.
Ristorante Umbria serves hearty, simple, yet elegant country-style food that features sauces and preparations that consist of delicious and fresh ingredients, and generally stays away from complicated processes. I sat at a cozy seat at one of the bars and enjoyed two items from the Antipasti menu - Involtini di Speck Tirolese, or imported smoked prosciutto rolls filled with truffled ricotta and goat cheese and served with warm chestnut flan; as well as Granchio in Carrozza al Bergamotto di Calabria, which is blue crabmeat salad scented with bergamot infused olive oil in a crunchy phyllo vessel. I paired the food with a couple of glasses of 2003 Rosso di Toscana, Avignonesi, which was light yet somewhat complex and matched the savory essence of each dish quite well. The prosciutto rolls were a perfect balance of the rich and tangy cheese flavors matched up with the fragrant and salty prosciutto. The plate was a beautiful presentation as well with each roll nicely formed and set against one another. I think I would have preferred just a simple crab salad as the meat was so fresh and tender I thought it would be best undisturbed, but the sweet meat worked well with the pungent bergamot (small and roughly pear-shaped citrus fruit) and the delightfully crisp phyllo shell. I was debating whether or not I should do something more low-key and casual (yet certainly authentic and delicious too) in Little Italy, but I am glad I explored a bit and was taken away to the Umbria region in Italy at least for the duration of the meal. Very neat spot.

Umbria Ristorante

295 Franklin Street in Boston, MA

http://www.umbriaristorante.com/

Friday at Panache and Sette Osteria

Friends met Friday to celebrate a birthday and relax and unwind a bit after the work week. Happy hour at Panache was certainly quite the scene with more than a few folks packed into most of the space. Luckily our birthday boy had thought ahead and reserved part of the bar for the group. Panache offers $4 house wines, cocktails and beers on tap until 7 p.m. I started with the Merlot which was too sweet and just didn't taste good. It was a fairly warm evening, and Panache's semi-open space in the bar area enabled us to enjoy it, so I opted to go white and ordered a glass of Pinot Grigio. It was crisp and light. My friends Amy and Chan and later my new friend Jackie arrived shortly and joined the crowd for a few more drinks, and we shared an order of Hummus which was actually quite tasty and served with large chunks of fresh tomato and nicely toasted flatbread. After a few hours, we decided to move onwards to our dinner destination. I was interested in trying the new Circa in Dupont, but the wait was over an hour and we were fairly hungry. We decided to go across the street to Sette Osteria, which as it turns out was a great choice as we didn't wait more than 30 minutes and were seated on their lovely patio. We settled in and ordered a bottle of Montepulciano Di Abruzzo which was fruity and light and perfect for the dishes on offer at Sette. To start, we ordered Guazzetto di Cozze e Vongole - mussels and clams stewed with white wine and touch of tomato; and Panzarotti - fried mini mozzarella calzone with marinara. I am not much for fried food generally, but did manage to have a taste of the cheese in the Panzarotti and it was creamy and almost sweet - very tasty. The mussels were large and delicious and the clams were on the small side but the dish was very nice all around thanks to a nice and tangy broth. We decided to share three larger plates for dinner - Rucola e Finocchio, or arugula and shaved fennel with Pecorino Campano and lemon vinaigrette; Quattro Stagioni pizza, which consists of a perfectly thin and crisp crust thanks to a high temperature wood-fired oven, along with tomato, fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, fresh artichokes and porchetta ham; and Pollo alla Griglia, or chicken breast pounded thin and grilled, with mixed field greens and tomatoes. The pizza was absolutely delicious, and the toppings really blended together as far as textures and flavors go. The salad is a standby for me and I almost always order it when at Sette, and we all enjoyed the crisp greens and fennel sliced extremely thin along with the tangy cheese and it was a nice refresher for the palate in between bites of the other dishes. The chicken was absolutely gorgeous with meat still fairly moist but a crust rich and dark brown and perfectly crispy. The beautiful yellow, red and orange tomatoes that adorned the top of the dish made for a beautiful presentation as well. We had a great meal and certainly enjoyed the lovely summer evening and the good company. A nice start to the weekend for sure.

Panache

1725 DeSales Street in NW DC

www.panacherestaurant.com

Sette Osteria

1666 Connecticut Avenue in NW DC

www.setteosteria.com

Happy Hour and Casa Oaxaca

I am often interested in the events put on by the French Wine Society, and have been to a few, but last night's happy hour was the first of its kind that I have seen and I hope they decide to do them more often. The casual format and inexpensive price make such events approachable for more folks, and there are a multitude of venues to choose from for this sort of get together. Happy hour was at Leftbank in Adams Morgan and it cost $5 to get in for non-members (free for members), and for this wine tastings were free and glasses were $3. Quite a deal in my opinion. We started with a Fondreche Rose which was dry and really a perfect first drink of the evening. It warms your mouth up for more. I tried all of the whites - a La Hitaire "Hors Saison" which is a blend of 85 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 15 percent Semillon, a Rene Mure Pinot Blanc and a Calande Chardonnay which is fermented 70 percent in tank and 30 percent in oak, of which 1/3 are new barrels. The Hors Saison was nice and crisp but not overly dry or acidic. The Rene Mure was actually my second favorite wine of the evening. It was absolutely well-balanced and light and very refreshing. I am not much of a Chardonnay fan and this one didn't really do it for me. Next was a Domaine de Gournier Merlot which was ok but a little too tannic for my palate. Finally I finished up with a Mas de Guiot blend of 40 percent Grenache and 60 percent Syrah, and this was really fantastic. Very approachable and fruity and an absolutely gorgeous shade of purplish burgundy as well. All of the wines were from Robert Kacher selections, a sure bet for nice vino. The crowd was quite amiable and friendly, and there were lots of fluent French speakers as well as folks like me who are conversant when it comes to "food French" but otherwise not fluent at all.

After the happy hour I stopped by a new place down 18th Street in Adams Morgan, Casa Oaxaca. I love Oaxacan cuisine because unlike traditional Tex/Mex it is relatively light and uses moles and interesting spices to enhance flavor rather than a ton of cheese and other greasy items. The venue has an upstairs dining level as well as a downstairs level with a long bar and a few tables as well. The lighting is dim and the colors of earthen yellows and browns on the walls and in the furniture permeate the atmosphere. There are several large, leafy plants that enhance the casual and festive vibe of the place. I wasn't too hungry so I had a glass of Cabernet (they only have Cabernet and Merlot right now as far as red wine goes) and their Ensalata with chicken. The salad was fresh with a variety of greens and nicely sauteed chicken, sliced tomatoes, cucumber wedges, an interesting variety of Mexican root vegetable of some kind and a light and citrusy vinaigrette. I also enjoyed the sliced jicama sprinkled with what tastes like a combination of smoked paprika and cinnamon and served with a slice of lime that greets you when you sit down at a table. The restaurant offers 10 or so varieties of tequila and has numerous mixed drink options. There are several varieties of Oaxacan tacos, some with meats such as pork and beef as well as a vegetarian option, and most tempting probably is Chicken Tres Moles which is chicken breast grilled and served with a trio of mole sauces. I can't wait to go back and try it.

French Wine Society

www.frenchwinesociety.org

Casa Oaxaca

2106 18th Street in NW DC

www.oaxacaindc.com

Wine Wednesday at Dino

The wine group met last night for Dino's "Wine Wednesday" tasting series. I love Dino anytime, but Wine Wednesday is really superb as on offering is a flight of wines and a trio of appetizers for $25, or you can just do the flight for $15. They also waive their corkage fee for the evening, which is a superb opportunity to enjoy their lovely Italian smallish plates along with a bottle of your choosing and for no extra cost as well.

Last night's feature was Rosso di Montalcino, Toscana. The wines were lush and fruity and delicious. The appetizer trio looked tasty, but we had a table reserved for later in the evening so instead we ordered a cheese plate and their creamy and rich Burrata which is served in a lovely white mound surrounded by sliced baguette and an olive tapenade as well as roasted red peppers. I also had a glass of Valpolicella which was very nice. When we were seated we opened the bottles that everyone brought for the evening. I brought a Tempranillo thinking that it would be a little gauche to bring in an Italian varietal given that Dino has a really great wine list anyhow. Others had the same idea as there were offerings from California, Australia and other new world origins. For the table we ordered Tris di Bruschette which was absolutely delicious. Grilled Bread three ways - with white bean & mushrooms; caramelized balsamico cippolini & erborinati; and goat cheese, pesto & oven-roasted tomato. The mushroom variety was especially delicious. I ordered my usual for my main - Acciuga Salad which is crisp Romaine with black pepper & anchovy dressing, grilled Tuscan bread and roasted chicken. Very tasty and actually fairly filling as well thanks to the chicken and the creamy dressing. Amy ordered Gramigna ai Funghi, which is whole mushroom Pasta - house made pasta, creamy wild mushroom ragu. It was gorgeous. The mushrooms were definitely cooked in some sort of decadent oil. Allan and several others had Pappardelle ai Cinghiale, or whole Wild Boar Pasta - house made pasta, traditional Tuscan sauce of boaronions, herbs, pecorino. I tried the boar and it was hearty and rich and tasty. Kristin had Fusili con Aragosta e Gambretti, or Lobster & Shrimp Pasta - house made pasta, creamy lobster sauce, carrots, zucchini, and crispy shallots. She was very sweet and gave me a bite of the luscious lobster - not sure there was enough of it (as usual I suppose) but it was well-cooked and not too firm and tasty. I finished up my wine for dessert, but several of the group decided to share a trio of desserts - “Moccha” or moccha mousse (chocolate & coffee), and espresso foam; Tris di Cioccolato or warm chocolate souffle cake, bittersweet chocolate gelato & chocolate crema Inghlese; and Crostata or a rustic fruit tart with a crumbly butter crust, and gelato. They actually did a good job of sharing thanks to lots of passing of the dishes. It was fun to watch. Everyone enjoyed each dessert but the Crostata seemed to emerge as the favorite. The group all had a great time catching up and enjoying the delicious food and the wines we had brought in for free no less. Wine Wednesday at Dino is a really great event.

Dino

3435 Connecticut Avenue in NW DC

www.dino-dc.com

Birthday Dinner at Brasserie Beck

Family and friends and I celebrated my birthday last Friday and had quite a grand 'ole time. We met for happy hour at Poste, which has $4 beer, house wines and truffled frites during their happy hour. It was a really nice group and it was so nice to see folks I have been meaning to catch up with. We enjoyed more than a few glasses of wine (the red was a nice Pinot Noir and the white a Sauvignon Blanc), and a couple of orders of frites (which taste like they may be done in a bit of duck fat - yum), and a few hours later it came time for our reservation at the newly-opened Brasserie Beck. I actually didn't realize it just opened last Wednesday, but thank goodness I am on the email list for Marcel's, Robert Wiedmaier's other place in Foggy Bottom, and so last week I received an email indicating Beck was accepting reservations. Marcel and Beck are the names of Robert's children. We arrived to pretty much a madhouse - the host stand was crowded and the bar and table areas were more than packed. I actually know one of the bartenders as he used to work at a local place in my neighborhood, so lucky for my group we were able to be served quickly. We waited 45 minutes even with a reservation, but no matter really - we were having a great time and were enjoying checking out the venue. You enter and to your left and in front of you are seating areas and to the right is a nice and well-stocked bar. The space is minimalist with hues of dark wood, granite, stainless steal, clean lines, sturdy tablestops and bars tops and very high ceilings (probably 30 or so feet). What is really neat as well as there are numerous tv's around the bar and restaurant which display the orders coming out of the kitchen, a really nice touch. The restaurant was perhaps not expecting such a large crowd as we ended up being seated in one of the private areas toward the rear of the restaurant. It actually worked out perfectly as it was much quieter in that space and there was only one other table in the room, so we have a bit of our own party so to speak. Plus, I sat at one of the heads of the table and had a perfect view of a tv showing all of the orders coming out of the kitchen. The private room is enclosed by beveled glass panels and one entire wall is glass and showcases the restaurant's wine collection housed behind it.

Brasserie Beck is essentially a modern Belgian Bistro - it has the typical fare Belgian in origin (great mussels, steak and frites etc.), but also quite a few other offerings not necessarily Belgian but still items you would imagine can be found at a good bistro. We browsed through the wine list, which actually is really comprehensive and there are quite a few bottles under $30. We started with a bottle of Carignan-Grenache-Syrah Corbieres Domaine Sainte Eugenie from Languedoc, and at $18 it was a real deal. It was fruity and well-balanced and I thought it would pair perfectly with many of the items on the somewhat wide-ranging menu. We ended up getting several bottles of this selection. We started with two of the three preparations of mussels - Curry & Apple and Fennel & Chorizo Sausage. Each comes with a large bowl of piping hot frites and is a really nice portion. The mussels were quite large and cooked well, and I especially enjoyed the Curry variety. Jamie and Stephen wanted extra frites so they also ordered a separate order of Belgian Frites with Mayonnaise Trio. We also ordered a dozen fresh oysters which on Friday were from the West Coast and large in size but still very briny. They come with an Apple & Shallot Mignonette. I usually prefer small oysters over the large, but these were nice. Louise and I shared a bottle of Cremant de Loire "Brut Rose," Yves Lambert, France, with the lovely bivalves and it was a lovely pairing. Lucky for us no one else was really interested in enjoying the oysters with us. Amy got the cheese plate to start as well and it came with 5 ample pieces and sliced baguette. She said it was rich and delightful - there was not any left to share so I imagine it is indeed lovely. I decided to stay somewhat light after all of the appetizers, so I ordered a Spinach Salad with Caramelized Shallots, Blue Tag Cheese and a Mustart Vinaigrette. I also ordered a side of Brussel Sprouts. Lisa ordered the same two items. Stephen, Jamie, John and the rest of the group opted for more hearty selections, including Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Confit of Cabbage and Mustard Sauce, Roasted Monkfish with Peppers and Olives, and Choucroute "en Croute." My salad was delicious and fresh and I enjoyed the pairing of the rich and creamy blue cheese with the tangy mustard vinaigrette and the sweet caramelized shallots. I love brussel sprouts in any preparation, or even just steamed or raw, and these were quite nice although a bit too rich for me thanks to a creamy cheese sauce and also a bit of melted cheese over the top of the sprouts. Very tasty though. I had a bite of the Choucroute which was amazing, and the portion is quite large so most of the table got to take a sample of that dish. Everyone was too full for dessert, but Beck does have a few tempting options including Pear Tarte Tatin, Cinnamon Honey Ice Cream with Gateau of Chocolate, Belgian Bread Pudding and Caramel Cheesecake. We did, however, enjoy a large slice of the obligatory birthday cake. It was creamy and chocolately and had large flecks of dark chocolate as an accent. I am not much of a sweets person so I finished my wine and looked forward to the next venue. I really can't wait to return to Beck and probably will do so the first chance I get. A few items I look forward to trying next time include starters of Napoleon of Vine Ripe Tomato with Pipe Dream Goast Cheese and a Scallion Balsamic Dressing, Lamb Sausage with Lentils and Frisee, Toasted Garlic Baguette with Poached Eggs & Fricassee of Mushrooms, and Steak Tartare, a side of Gratin of Cauliflower, and mains of Roasted Rabbit Loin in Kriek Beer, Coq au Vin and Crispy Skate Wine a la Jacqueline with Garlic Spinach. I also look forward to enjoying more from Beck's well-priced wine list. For beer fans they also offer a separate Belgian Beer list. Such a great addition to the city, and one I would highly recommend checking out.

Poste (inside the Hotel Monaco)

555 8th Street in NW DC

www.postebrasserie.com

Brasserie Beck

1101 K Street in NW DC

www.beckdc.com

Easy Entertaining

Wanted to pass along a few recipes for an easy meal that is great for entertaining. The meal is generally appealing and quite simple to prepare and pairs fabulously with a light red wine.

First, although somewhat unusual, at least as far as prep goes we start with dessert as it need at least 4 hours to set in the fridge. Peel 2 large bananas and roll each in a large, shallow dish filled with Nutella or another variety of chocolate, hazelnut spread or even any thick and rich chocolate sauce. Once well coated, roll each banana in finely chopped nuts of your choice or dried coconut pieces. Place on a plate and let set in the fridge for at least 4 hours or ideally overnight.

For the appetizer we take a bit of a twist on a Caprese Salad. Start with 4 large Beefsteak or Heirloom tomatoes. Cut slices from the top of each tomato but only go 3/4 of the way down into the tomato, thus leaving the base intact. Put thin slices of fresh Mozzerella cheese in the cuts in each tomato, season liberally with salt and pepper, and place leaves of fresh Basil in with the cheese. Serve the fanned tomatoes with goodness on a bed of thinly sliced shallots or red onions with a drizzle of olive oil and salt and pepper and toasted baguette or whole weat pita wedges.

For the main, a simple roast pork tenderloin.
1 pound pork tenderloin
1 medium Granny Smith apple, diced
2 tablespoons almonds, chopped
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon butter
Sear the pork tenderloin in a skillet on medium high heat on all sides until nicely browned, and bake or grill tenderloin to desired degree (keep in mind once seared "low and slow" is best for cooking pork). Set aside.
In a small non-stick saucepan, add diced apples, butter, almonds and maple syrup. Cook on medium-high heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat.
Slice tenderloin on the bias, arrange on a platter, pour apple mixture on top and serve on a bed of fresh spinach with sprigs of fresh rosemary.

Serve the pork with caramelized brussel sprouts.
10 cups small fresh brussel sprouts (almost 3 pounds)
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup butter
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
3/4 cup water
1 teaspoon koshersalt
Prepare the brussel sprouts by peeling off 2 to 3 of the dark outer leaves; trim stem ends.
In a large skillet heat the sugar over medium high heat until sugar begins to melt, shaking pan to heat sugar evenly. Once sugar starts to melt, reduce heat and cook until sugar begins to turn brown. Add butter; stir until melted. Add the vinegars. Cook and stir for 1 minute.
Add the water and salt. Bring to a boil and add the sprouts. Return to boiling and reduce heat. Simmer, covered, for 6 minutes. Uncover; cook about 15 minutes longer or until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the sprouts are coated with a golden glaze, stirring occasionally.

For the dessert, cut the bananas into sushi like slices and serve on a platter along or with edible flowers for accent.

Wine and Cheese at Bar Pilar

I met a friend last night at Bar Pilar, a cozy spot just off 14th Street in the U Street neighborhood. The ambiance is somewhat relaxed when it isn't crazy crowded, and the bar is long and made of dark wood and there is a kitschy, nautical theme throughout the venue. Owned by the folks who own Cafe Saint Ex down the street, the menu features a variety of small plates featuring fresh, local ingredients and not too much in the way of sauces and spreads. Examples include Sauteed Arugula with anchovy, lemon, red onion, Beet Carpaccio with goat cheese, mint, pine nuts, Fava Beans with pecorino and mint, Seared King Salmon with basil puree and Smoked Pouisson Breast with fennel and orange zest. I enjoy the Tempranillo they offer and started with a glass of that. We decided to share a cheese plate which comes on a wooden board with the cheese and crostini as well as a very sweet and smooth apple sauce and a thick slice of quince. You can choose 3 or 5 cheeses. We did 5 - a blue, a goat (which was super creamy), a Porter cheddar, a goat/sheep/cow's milk combo and a creamy cow's milk cheese with a grape leaf running through it. My favorite was the creamy goat, which tasted lovely with a dab of the apple sauce on the thin, toasted crostini. My friend enjoyed all of the cheeses but favored the blue. At $17 I thought the amount of cheese could have been a little more, but it was a really nice selection and went very well with the Spanish Tempranillo on offering. I think next time I go back I will pair it with the Sauteed Mushrooms or perhaps one of the grilled fish options and make a meal out of it.

Bar Pilar

1833 14th Street in NW DC

www.barpilar.com